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I have one pin lock keg that I acquired. It needs cleaning new seals no doubt and some TLC. I'll never use it, $20.00 and it's yours.

It would be the fruit that's dried it out. You could add Stevia to increase the sweetness but see what it's like in a few weeks you may find the confronting tartness has mellowed out a bit

I have to say I struggle with this statement. Assuming you mean 'lighter beers' are lighter in colour rather than a lower ABV, I can't see that a beer will take any longer to 'lager' with or without darker malts such as Munich or Vienna - a requirement for Marzen style beers. In fact I would...

Yes, down my local Community Club tonight and I drank a Hofbrau original at 5.1% abv and a Hofbrau Oktoberfest at 6.3% abv. Now both these beers were noticably lighter in colour than what the others were drinking which was Carlton, West End Draught and Super Dry. Both are super malty of course...

I don't wet-mill because I do not know anything about except what I have read here but I condition my malt and have been doing it for years. Number one of course is you need stainless steel mill rollers. Steel rollesr are okay in summertime but in winter they stay damp and will form surface...

Most - if not all the German Oct. lagers like Paulaner are fairly light in colour and very malty of course. Even light Munich adds quite a dark colour to beer if used in any sort of quantity which kind of proves to me that very little or possibly no spec malts were used. They are usually a...

Two fermenters or three kegs.

Pilsner malt - and lots of it. Minimal amounts of spec malt and keep the hops on the low side. Use a high attenuating LAGER yeast and pay close attention to temperature control

I just did a whirlpool hop at the rate of 0.2g/L in a lager and even at that rate it overrides the malt. Malt bill was Glad light lager with 5% light crystal and 2% acidulated. Dry hop would have destroyed it. Hop used was Wai-Iti, a low alpha hop from NZ.

Pretty much identical to the one I bought at Harvey's for a dollar less

I am not 100% sure on this one, I have read that it doesn't have the same effect and therefore Sodium Met should be used - however, I have no scientific evidence and without that I am certainly not diving into speculation. I have both so I use sodium met

Water profile is normal tap water - Adelaide tap water in my case which has been filtered (sediment plus solid carbon block). I don't use two packs of yeast, if you re-read my post I did say I step it up. A 2L starter on a stir plate or equivalent is ideal

Sorry haven't been reading the other forums. A couple of brews back, I did get caught and done one 50L batch of wheat beer but only had enough yeast for one fermenter. A quick trip down to LHBS and they had no M20 yeast so I direct pitched a pack of Wy 3068 in one fermenter and the M20 in the...

For light lagers I only use first wort hopping generally, allowing the hops to steep in the first runnings for around 20 minutes before sparging or turning on the flame under the kettle. Just lately I have been experimenting adding some late hopping at around 15 minutes before flame-out however...

Yep, my recipe is simple. 55% malted wheat, 45% barley of which most is pils malt but around 5% very light crystal which adds a bit more body which I prefer. Wheat malt makes a thin bodied beer so some crystal compensates. For Yeast I have been using Mangrove Jacks M20 (stepped up) which gives...

I do cold crash but from 18C down to 8C only prior to kegging - no colder for this style. I do drink it quite cold though, probably around 3-4C

I don't pre-boil the water mainly because I don't have time to boil and then cool but there is no doubt boiling will reduce DO. 100mg of sodium met per litre does help. Conditioning malt normally refers to dampening the malt prior to milling to help keep the husks from breaking up too much -...

Three weeks is crazy long for this style. I brew a lot of Hefes and quite literally brew one weekend and drink the next. Hefes are better when super fresh and plenty cloudy. To achieve this, step up your yeast so you have a big pitch (forget all that junk info about under pitching). Ferment...

@belllup, manticle is spot on the money here. @homebrewnewb, a lot of what is in that article is beyond home brewers capability. However, adding sodium metabisulphite to mash and sparge water at the rate of 0.1g per litre does act as an oxygen scavenger and helps preserve more of the...

No transferring or racking, too much chance of introducing oxygen, do everthing in the primary and leave the lid on until you're ready to transfer to a keg or bottling bucket. The least interferring the better until it's ready