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Yeah I've made a kit before.

Surely it also depends on the initial temp you are taking your wort down from. If you scale it down for example and imagine that a litre of hot water is a 23 litre batch of beer and 1 small ice cube is the equivalent of say an block of ice made from a 2 litre ice cream tub. If you put the ice...

It's my favourite too. Nice and flavourful and a great colour too. It's the Hefeweizen I always aim to recreate.

C'mon we're brewers. We should be masters at sanitising anything.....

Maybe should have read that properly.... Do you mean a bottle of water which has been frozen? I may be having a brain fart and not getting what you mean....

I can only assume it is difficult to prepare/procure ice which is sufficiently 'sanitary' to not infect your wort.

Just wanted to revive this thread cause it's something I've been thinking about. Unfortunately i I cannot get brewbrite in Scotland as the only distributor in the uk sells it as 20 kg bags only which is slightly surplus to my requirement. A guy I spoke to said I could formulate my own with...

What, like how you get slaughtered by coopers beer?

I agree with this completely that a lot of my beers seem to be ready after about 2-3 weeks. Half the enjoyment of brewing is learning how your beer changes over time and what you can learn to put into practise the next time when conditioning. As many have said it depends on style. A hefe is...

Good thing is I can get another 100gms from a mate so thats not really an issue. I take it with this technique less isn't more so to speak....... Again will see what brewmate says and take it from there. Thanks

Yeah got brewmat but am currently at work so not able to use. Was more just wanting advice on the technique and results of this type of brewing. Will run through brewmate once I get home and see what turns up.

So do you feel that 100gms may not be sufficient....should I get another 100gms? Also I dry hopping necessary with this technique or do you get the aroma too with this single addition?

Hi, I have recently bought 100gms of galaxy pellets with which I plan to make a 10min IPA. I plan on using the usual grist pale/wheat/bit crystal yet I am still a little bit confused around the hop additions and amounts. I plan to get the IBU's to around the 50 mark or therabouts. I will...

Correct me if I'm wrong but I go for warmish to carb up and then cellar temp to condition. Easy for me to say as I'm in Scotland and easy to cellar beers! Lol Time is important and you get to know by feel( if using PET) when your beers are ready. I had a stout though that was left for a...

It depends on a few things such as what size of starter you require for your brew and what yeast you're using for your starter. Some yeasts produce krausen when making a starter and can overflow and go everywhere. I have a 250ml flask to start the step up from small amounts and then once I...

I agree with blind dog as I have cold crashed my last two hefes. Before doing this I seemed to get too much yeast after bottle carbonation. I always find that if bottling them to get the high carbonation required all the sugar creates enough yeast/trub after secondary fermentation even after...

as with everything in life the more it costs the better it works.

must be better than mines.

better reading when facing the sun.......

All very useful information. However the OP stated that after adding water to wort the reading didn't change. That has nothing to do with calibration or corrections or the like. If that sort of thing was the problem, the reading would still be wrong but at least the value would change. So I...