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Same here. Don't know what the oldest yeast I've used would be, I never checked the dates.

I've always said all alcohol should be taxed exactly the same per litre of ethanol, regardless of ingredients or methods used to create the finished product.

Could be a long boil to get the desired evaporation.

They come with a standard warranty of 9 lives. I'm not sure if additional coverage is available.

Because all three kegs are connected to the same gas line. Leaky keg leaks, the gas cylinder tops it up. Repeat until the gas cylinder is empty. Once that happens, the leaky keg will keep leaking, but as the gas cylinder is empty, the gas pressure will drop. Because the leaky keg is connected...

Multigrips or vice grips are your best bet

I did say "almost". Better teetotal than VB. Or XXXX Gold :thumbsdown:.

We've all had brew days like that:hairout:! Sometimes it's almost enough to make a man go teetotal!

I'd have to make new hoses. I'll keep thinking about it.

I've never had a problem with my camlocks leaking. Yes, my though was to use it for cold-side transfers, in which case the beer will be going from keg to keg. I've never seen a keg with a TC, so there would be at least one fatlock/ quick disconnect involved on each hose anyway.

Not a bad idea, but I don't have any TC fittings anywhere in the brewery. I was thinking either corny post or fatlock type fittings to use transferring beer. Problem is I can't find any with 1/2" BSP. Could use camlock, but I only have camlock-camlock hoses for my 3V, so that's a bit limiting...

I've been browsing the new website today (and having a homebrew :drinkingbeer:); so far I'm liking what I've seen . I've found the Super Sucker, which looks like a handy thing to have around. My concern is, I would want flexibility about what connections I use on the other end of the hoses, so...

Ah yes. What a joy it was brewing with a stepladder.

That's what I did. Still got plenty of hop character.

Btdt. Through both grain bed from a mini mash, and through a hop bag. Either way you need a fairly large surface area as the pellet sludge will quickly form an impermeable layer.

If you weren't pouring beers at too fast of a rate (beers per hour, not fluid speed through the chiller plate) you might get away with it. But upping the rate too much would result in the plate getting too warm because a fridge (and its contents) don't have as much thermal mass as ice. Also...

If they didn't bother to tell him they'd died, how could he know?:fallingoffchair:

Don't care about awesome, different aesthetics. Weatherproof and long lasting is what I want.

If it uses a cam/offset bushing to adjust the gap, you can get the two at different settings while the indicators read the same. And that's assuming that it was assembled correctly in the first place. Can you pull the knobs off and realign them both so that they both agree with your feeler gauge?

Beauty! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers::cheers: