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+1 Thanks!!

OneEye - The answer to your question is basically 'yes'. Main difference in h/w looks like craftbeerpi does not use a dedicated local LCD display, but instead appears to use a PC/network connection. This, in turn, opens up a lot more feature opportunities. I like the 1,2, or 3 kettle setup...

OK, voice of reason here :-) you guys need to pull this into perspective. I have been an EE for ~20 yrs, working on precision temp control systems for 14 yrs. This DS1825 sensor is only accurate to 0.5*C / 0.85*F in the range of -10 to +85*C.....at boiling in the range of -55 to 125*C, it is...

Yeah, you can find them all over as they are sourced from China (of course). It's got some small MTG holes that can be used with a small screw or stand-off. I have a roomy enclosure that I repurposed from another product, but this module is only about 1.5 x 2.5 inches. Two panel mounted relays...

I used one of these, purchased from a domestic seller. They also sell on the hobbiest sites, maybe for a bit more. Used one for pump, one for 12v buzzer: http://m.ebay.com/itm/5V-2-Channel-Relay-Module-Shield-for-Arduino-ARM-PIC-AVR-DSP-Electronic-10A-ASUS-/301143217104

Compiles now, I see the comment in code @ 1.6.x Have a USB problem now, but I will try to sort that one out. Thanks

Arduini 1.0.6 Downloading 1.6.5 now.

Trying to go from 2.6.70b10 to 2.8.3rc8 Getting "sketch too big" error. 33,486 bytes of a 32kbtye max. Any ideas of what is wrong? It's not much over, but I seem to recall a large vs. smaller one wire temp sensor lib. Thanks, Dave

You should begin with I & D terms at zero. This will be purely proportional gain. The 'I' term integrates (adds up) the error, which will force it back toward the setpoint after gathering enough error (depending on the gain setting. The 'D' term is the derivative term and tends to force...

Thanks - I think that clears it up. So, most of my pins will need rewired. :-( Additionally, all pins are wired in, but not all used. Also good to know. --Dave A

EDIT: I saw Dave's post after I posted below. So, that gets me closer. I will need to review ArdBir source code and see which syntax it uses in the LCD function call. Then, see what pin numbers are passed to the function, and relate them to the pin functions at the link you sent. Thanks...

Thanks for the reply, Dave. I had that part covered (include file LCD selection). Can you or someone else send the pin descriptions? I still need to know which pin on the Arduino serves which function for the LCD. Some are obvious, but I am not sure about the data and R/W and EN lines...

Sorry if this is available somewhere else, but I could not find it... Are 4x20 LCDs with the HD44780 controller supported. Just got it all wired before I realized the pinouts were mostly wrong (schematic v. LCD). My LCD display pin out is: 1: Vss/GND 2: Vdd 3: Vo (contrast) 4: RS 5: R/~W 6...

Does anyone know of a good alternative low heat density coil like Blichmann boil coil? It is probably one of the more reasonable thing they sell, but I heard of talk about dip elements that hang over the side possibly. Only ones I've seen are low power. I know there is the water heater...

I think the 16x2 LCDs have separate Enable pins for each side of the display. Not sure of the P/N that is used to ID the pin number, but that is something to narrow it down ...still could possibly be a damaged LCD, tho...

All you need to do is determine the intended connections at the node where the broken pad is (from schematic), and reconnect the resistor pin to the nearest place (other component pin, pad, or via) where it can reestablish the original connection points. Do this by soldering some very small...

OK, good points made. The AutoSparge works like a toilet ball valve and limits or turns off the flow when the level gets too high, and it is a closed system when used in a BE type setup. It can only work to limit 10 psi max. That said, even though it would be less fab work to build a BE...

Thanks, Edak! PM sent... I guess it diffuses it somewhat, but my guess is it only diffuses from 1/2"-1" pump inlet (1.25 - 2.5 cm) to maybe a few inches or so (~10cm). I am an EE (sparky:), not an Mech Eng, but I am thinking a smaller hole in the bottom would not change things too much...

Edak - Looks good at first glance... I like the idea of hardwired sensor and SSR. Connectors are fine, but add cost and failure points. Any chance you're willing to share SRC files our Gerber's? I have 20 yrs of PCB / h/w experience, but a lack of time. Another topic...I read all xxx pages...

Neo - Yeah on second thought everything on the power output side of the circuit really would need to be reviewed to make sure of correct sizing for your application. IEC sockets seem unnecessary anyway, less cost to wire directly or use terminal blocks. --Dave