Search results

Never filtered the tap water in any brew I've made, Brisbane tap water is pretty decent already. I do use potassium met to remove chloramines from it though. These days though I make distilled water and use that so I can dial in specific water profiles. In any case, whether or not it's my...

We're in our new house now, put a post up in the local community page and got a couple of replies. Said I was brewing Saturday just gone and crickets. I'll try again next brew day... in the meantime it's getting dumped in the front garden (we don't really go out there much).

Perfect timing, count me in too!

Not that I'm aware of but I do like to let as much of it drain out or dry off as I can before I put wort or beer in whatever the container is.

Why? Did it have floaties in it? :p

Maybe not for Fermentis yeasts but oftentimes the amount you get in liquid vials or smack packs isn't enough to direct pitch into a full size batch. I also harvest yeast from starters to reuse later, might be a little more work but it saves a fuckload of money.

Depends on the age I guess. I have an old Frigidaire that dates back to the 1950s that I'm using as a brew fridge, and it has no trouble dropping a brew to zero for a cold crash any time of the year. Granted, at this time of year it takes a little longer, but it still gets there. The only thing...

I use my fermentation fridge to cold crash. Currently got a brew sitting on zero degrees in there, due to be kegged in a week or so. A freezer would do it easier but it can be done in a fridge as well.

I agree with goatchop. I've been no-chilling for over 6 years, probably done over 100 batches this way and have never noticed astringency like that in any of them once they are carbonated and ready to drink. I have noticed at times that FG samples taste more bitter/astringent than intended and I...

Yeah I find the kegerator looks pretty good inside. 3 kegs is usually enough for me although I keep one of them on soda water permanently so it's really only two kegs of beer. Most of them work fine at the same pressure so if one runs out and I put another one in, nothing changes. However, I...

I'd get two fridges, one to ferment in and one for chilling and serving kegs from. That's what I have currently and it works much better than it would trying to ferment and drink from the same fridge.

Not a bad idea either though. Sent from my Agora 4G+ using Aussie Home Brewer mobile app

I haven't got any spare beer line anyway so I'll still have to buy more to do it, might as well go the 6mm. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out how full it is either as I keg my beers straight from cold crashing, condensation should give a pretty good idea especially if the transfer is slow...

This is next on my list of brewery upgrades, probably about the first thing I'll sort out once we move house in a couple of weeks. Just need one of those bottling wand thingys and some 6mm line which shouldn't be too hard to get.

-20 is a bit over the top. It would only need to be about 8-10 degrees difference between them to go 2 points lower. A reading at say 28/29 degrees would be about 2 points lower than one taken at 20. But I'd agree it's probably due to a lack of degassing.

There's no need for the ramp down to be that slow. That'd take half a fkn year. After I do a rest at 18 degrees towards and after the end of fermentation, I drop lagers down to 12, then 2.2/2.3 degrees per day down to 3, where it sits for another week or so and is then kegged and lagered for...

There are no hops in a starter.

What I meant was, if I wasn't harvesting from the starter then it would only need to be about 1 litre in size. Because I take 800mL of it for the next time, they have to be around 2 litres to account for that portion harvested. So, 800mL of it goes into a mason jar which is stored in the...

They can. It's just residual CO2 coming out of solution.