Search results

Hi, Just looked at your diagram, the line and neutral are back to front on the Australian plugs. When looking at the socket, the active (line) is on the left. Although when you come to wire it the socket will be colour coded so you be had pressed to do it wrong. Also, why don't you put the SSR...

It is designed to protect the keg form over-pressure in the event of a regulator failure. Cornie kegs have PRV but standard 50 L kegs don't.

If it has a round end that pulls up into a conical fitting then no tape but if not, then tape (or sealant paste/liquid) is a must. Use the yellow gas tape.

Yep, you can work on them half full, just don't drop anything onto the beer.

Swap the lines over as suggested, perhaps there is a leaky seal at the top of the dip tube picking up gas?

What is the calibration temperature on that hydrometer?

Good hustle, lets wait and see.

No! ....well, I don't think so

How the hell was that discovered?

Would it be bland enough to use as a base for fruit/spice beer?

Bleach will clean up the mould well also, just needs extra rinsing.

Yes that socket would work. Bear in mind the cost of the SSR, heatsink and box need to be added to the total cost. As for the leads needed for Punkin's (Stilldragon) kit you can get a cheap extension lead and cut it up and use the ends as in/out tails.

The SCR system will work very well but the problem with phase control (which is what this method is) is that it can cause issues for the electricity suppliers when it is applied to large loads. The method is used all the time on things like drills etc. The big question is how big can you go...

The whipped cream guns use N2 not CO2, don't know what the difference in bottle volumes and pressures would be but could be significant. You could try a plastic coke bottle and carb cap but using one of those little inflator guns with a valve

I concur with Danscraftbeer, the only way to avoid the stresses you mention is to ensure you have a few more well conditioned kegs ready to go. Sadly however, this is not always possible.

Me too please, I love that beer also. Dave

How fast did your yeast takeoff? I have experienced the same thing on the odd occasion when the yeast was slow in getting started. Dave

Who knows mate, my kegs always seem to run dry just as the beer is really tasting good. As for re-gassing, if you don't have any leaks then is is not required. Just reconnect the gas for serving so the pressure doesn't drop.

Just close your eyes when you drink it. And get some more kettle finings

I reckon they are just woosys who don't think they can finish a cask within a couple of days so they are looking at a CO2 vent thingy.