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Ha, next we will have beer bag-in-a-box like the way post mix drinks have gone.

2 weeks usually does the trick.

No problems other than tasting bad! I believe no pathogens survive in beer so all ok. If it tastes bad leave it to condition a while longer as it may come good.

Another option is a pluto gun with a screw on stout nozzle. I have one and it works well.

Hi Manticle, what I meant was that Ca in sparge water will not have a great influence since by itself it does not change the pH, rather it affects pH via chemical reactions in the mash. In the sparge (ie post mash) I don't think Ca will have a major influence (this is where my chemistry...

Hi Luke, I also brew in 40 L batches but I no chill so I ferment in 20 L batches which I usually give about a minute of oxygen, so for a 40 L batch I would give about 2 minutes to get the same level of oxygenation. As for what sort of regulator is best it really doesn't matter because as I said...

Manticle is spot on, but just to reiterate that salt additions will not affect sparge pH only flavour (bitterness perception etc). To lower sparge pH to avoid tannin extraction you have to use acid. Dave

Hi Yob, I think the OP is considering a Bunnings type D size welding Oxy cylinder (around 2 cubic meters of gas I think) hence my position of using a standard welding regulator with an adjustable pressure output and no flow gauge rather than a fixed pressure regulator with a flow gauge. I agree...

Don't bother with a flow meter, get a regulator that has the correct fitting for the oxy bottle and wind the knob in just far enough for the bubbles to break the surface of the wort. Hunt around eBay etc for a regulator as there are plenty of old oxy acetylene sets out there.

Has anyone made an adaptor to go from a soda stream gas bottle to one of those mini regulators? That would make it economical.

Also note that when you pull the pluto gun on you need to adopt a technique where you keep the front handle stationary and move the rear handle. If you pull it like a trigger (ie pull the front handle backwards) the tip of the gun will flick and could crack the side of your glass. BTDT

Edit multiple post - bloody internet

Edit multiple post - bloody internet

An SSR is just a fancy opto coupler thingy, so plan to put about 20mA through the the low voltage side like you would a LED. The high voltage side is just interrupting the active line, therefore you just pass through the neutral and earth (especially the the earth, if you use BP connectors, use...

They sell special boards for cutting up Hipsters, wow I am behind the times. (edit: dad joke/pun #272)

Also, when you get your hop tea, add it to a single glass of beer (use a graduated eye dropper) until you get the quantity right then scale the amount up to suit a keg (if that is what you are using). Sorry if I am stating the bleeding bloody obvious but worth saying just in case.

I don't think there is a divide between chillers & no-chillers. Chill a batch on brew day AND put away some FWKs to keep the fermenter full between brew days! Dave

I'd say case B. You are better off knocking the temperature down with mains water first then do the last bit with the chilled water. Has to do with the cooling rate (heat transfer rate) being proportional to the temperature differential, Newton's law of cooling I think it is called.

It's not you. It is a confusing game, especially for new players.

Looks like a 50L version of the WW without the glycol chiller and gas. The clarifier dosing accessory looks like it was take straight from the WW. Probably a very well made piece of gear.