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You can convert your fridgemate to do exactly what you want with the addition of this relay. Instead of directly powering the output socket, the fridgemate now powers the coil of the relay. The relay switches the power between the two sockets - one for heat, one for cool. Wiring is as follows...

With RIMS, the flow rate is important - it has to be high enough to prevent scorching, particularly if you're doing a step and the element is running flat out - but you don't need to be able to infinitely vary the flow rate with precision. It's a whole lot easier to vary the power applied to an...

No, it won't.

Why? HERMS is a lot more popular, I suspect because it's easier to setup. I think that with a RIMS system, though, you've got scope for much more precise control. It becomes a single control loop with much shorter τ. With a HERMS you've got to control the temperature of the secondary vessel...

Lots of little bits of anything - sand, ball bearings, copper shavings etc - will never be remotely as good as solid material. You just don't get enough heat transfer between the millions of tiny thermal interfaces, with attendant insulating air gaps.

Mineral oil is commonly used as a heat-transfer fluid, though it has its own problems. Can go rancid over time, and condensation of water vapour can corrode things inside it unless it's completely sealed. Lead melts at 327C and boils at 1749C, so molten/vaporised lead wouldn't be a problem, but...

Sure, but considering it's cut from a silicone baking tray, you're probably pretty safe in assuming that they're food grade, and rated to higher than boiling temperatures. Even if it's not, it's still going to be better than leather in terms of porosity, long term breakdown, leeching of...

Excellent, glad to hear you got it working

you're dead right, it has been used for thousands of years. Similarly, leeches have been used for thousands of years to treat illnesses. Doesn't mean it's a good idea, certainly doesn't mean it's the best. Science came up with a better way.

As I read it, the only answers getting knocked were yours. Sorry mate, each to their own and all that, but leather's a really silly idea. It's not food grade, would be an excellent harbour for bacteria, and breaks down over time, particularly with exposure to liquid. Nah, not necessary, and...

You might find you have to ditch the stainless washer on the inside. Unless it makes a perfect seal with the bulkhead flange, or the silicone washer squeezes out such that it makes a perfect seal with the thread, you'll get leaks as liquid can run between the washer and flange, then down the...

Blegh! Leather's great if you want to make a really weak beef stock, but not if you want to make beer. Gregor, you'll find you only need a silicone washer on the inside, not the outside, assuming you manage to get a good seal. If you tighten it by holding the inside nut still and turning the...

Ah cool, didn't zoom the image first time around and it looked like rivets. Valve and bulkhead both SS as well? Marine shops can be pricey for those, but you can get them from geordi or T&S prety cheap. If the weight of the grain becomes a problem, you might be able to solve it by just using...

Are the rivets also stainless? If not, they're likely to rust.

T&S valves near Campbelltown are the mob, but you'll pay more for a shipped order - they do good prices for cash sales off the street. Definitely worth emailing them for a quote thouugh, otherwise the cheapest you'll find is Geordi

You did remember to unplug it first, at lest, didn't you? Did you forget the brewday rule? Don't start drinking until you make the first hop addition.

Meanwhile, how's Sir Rick going with that pour d'ya'reckon? You'd think from his publicity stunts that he doesn't need any more head than he's getting already...

or better yet, post in that thread

Please advise you say? <ADVICE>press your CAPS LOCK key, then use a screwdriver to remove it from your keyboard until you've learnt how to use it.</ADVICE>

I'm guessing you're not much for subtlety in your beers?