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Skippy, shut up. You're the reason people don't listen to me when I tell them they're going to electrocute themselves. In this case, there's no issue at all, provided the contacts are protected so you can't touch them. A junction box would see to that.

125 apparently

Like this. The plastic is polypropylene and the gasket is butadiene-acrylonitrile rubber ( I spoke to the supplier)

Sounds like the problem is in your PSU circuit. Check that you've got the right filter capacitors installed, and that they're around the right way. The regulator Andrew suggested is unlikely to help, but you need to make sure your supply is clean

Yeah, looks alright, assuming those two active ends left hanging are either end of the link between the cutout and the element, and are hence no longer live (best to remove them altogether). You now, of course, no longer have boil dry protection, which is a bit of a fire hazard, but mostly just...

The flow from a pump drops off as the height it has to pump to increases. There are a bunch of other factors involved, but essentially, go for the minimum possible height difference between vessels. Don't sweat it too much though, the march pump should be able to put out a decent flow higher...

I'm gonna have to design one and release the circuit, aren't I?

hmm...The relay shouldn't chatter - it should turn on and stay on for some time, the worst you should hear being a click each time it cuts in or out, and it shouldn't be doing that any more than once in ten minutes or so. Have you checked the hysteresis settings (I assume the silicon chip...

You don't think maybe it's time for some taps?

So, the quantity break is 9, and you get $10 off at 9 units? plus you have to sort your own freight??

I like these

Those things are called thermostats. You've never seen one in your career as an electronics tech? Anyway, they're switches that cut the power when the temperature reaches a set level. One of them is a normally closed, and switches open when the temperature goes above whatever maximum they...

The setup is going to be as I posted way back here. Because of the ridiculous prices of compression fittings, I'm going to be draining straight out of the bottom of the vessels. Nipple goes through the bottom with a nut and silicone washer on the inside. The other side of the nipple is connected...

Then what's your question exactly? If you know how they work, because you're a self-professed electronics tech, then there shouldn't be any question. As nickb said, the aluminium block is a heatsink, it's there to dissipate the area over which heat is dispersed (or drawn in on the cold side)...

I looked closely at Geordi before I went down to Ingleburn. I was very pleased to have made the trip. Does that help?

I won't tell you how much it was because I suspect T&S vary their prices somewhat and I don't want to give anyone the bum steer. But it was cheap.

So, I went shopping yesterday...

Yep, that sounds pretty good

I was just thinking exactly that, mate. Sorry 'bout the delay, things've been busy. I should have some time next week to have a bash, so stay tuned.

The fan controller would take the place of everything in the diagram - LM317, pot, caps, etc. You'd just connect 12V to one side of the controller, connect the fan to the other side of the controller and you're away. The knob for adjusting the fan speed is part of the controller.