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Does the shape of the chiller permit you to whirlpool while it's immersed? I've never used an immersion chiller, but as per Wrayza's post, moving the wort around the chiller will chill it more rapidly, although I'm not sure why the suggestion is to agitate the chiller itself, then switch to...

+1 I run my HLT (2400 W Crown urn) on one and have never seen any indication of overheating.

Disclaimer: I'm a total amateur and not qualified in any way. Looks good to me, mb-squared. I'd say it's ready to show your sparky mate, without any expectation of pissing. As Camo said, earth the SSR. The only other advice I'd offer is consider using a DC signal to trigger the relays, so the...

I don't have one (I have a non ramp/soak cheapo Sestos PID which does have a duty cycle option), but I don't think the Auber ramp/soak model has that capability. The Auber website says it "has all the features of the standard PID controller (except the manual control mode)" which maybe means it...

For a single batch (meaning ~20 L?) one 2400W element would probably be sufficient to maintain a good boil. But if you want to ramp up the temperature faster, the element you linked will obviously help. You could easily dial back the power once it's boiling with a duty-cycle system such as a PID...

Yep, based on your sister and mrs' descriptions, some wild yeast/bacteria got in. Could turn out great or could be disgusting. It doesn't matter if your wine thief was squeaky clean - there's tons of stuff floating about in the air which will quite happily chew through the sugars and nutrients...

I would say Markbeer is referring to a method of getting late boil hop/flavour aroma into a no-chilled beer. Either reserve some wort from brewday, make a small batch with extract or draw some wort off from the cube as described here. Boil for as long as your earliest late kettle hop addition...

Viability decreases by something like 5% for every day it's stored, right? So the longer it's left, the further below your targeted pitching rate it'll be.

To do a 55°C rest (commonly referred to as a protein rest) and then raise to your saccharification temperature, you can do a step infusion, which will probably require you to reduce your strike water volume and have the remaining liquor at a higher temperature. Software can help you with these...

Will depend on how warm the beer got after fermentation started to slow down/stop. A lager fermented at 10°C, and which is never allowed to rise above that temperature, will have substantially more dissolved CO2 than a beer that was allowed to warm up, or fermented warm. Calculators such as the...

Are you and manticle talking about purging the headspace in the primary FV, or something else? If so, what does that achieve? Is the supposed purpose to stall the bacteria that's causing the DMS?

This, definitely. How long will your hot/warm wort be sitting without yeast in it? I get the rushing to finish before work thing - I've been there, but you'd have been better off no-chilling or even leaving to cool, covered, in the kettle.

Very cool, rockeye. Looks like you've got an (ethylene) glycol mix as the coolant? I've heard that the over time beer line might be permeable enough to allow contamination, hence why food grade propylene glycol is normally used instead. Do you even need any kind of antifreeze in there? Your keg...

What's the reason for your aversion to no-chill, Nizmoose? No-chill is awesome, for a whole heap of reasons that have been documented repeatedly on this forum and elsewhere. Whether you chill or not, your friend probably needs to get a more convenient fermenter. Presumably he'll need that 30 L...

Don't they start a "why isn't my airlock bubbling?" thread on AHB?

Read contrarian's advice more closely - attach a black (liquid) disconnect to your gas line (instead of the normal grey/white gas disconnect), then you can attach it to the liquid post on the keg and give it a blast of CO2. Vent the keg first to make sure that there's no pressure which could...

Well, it also keeps the yeasties in suspension. This seems like it would make sure that they always have access to fresh sugarz, instead of floccing out and sleeping? Maybe this makes no difference, in which case the best approach is to oxygenate it at the start, then leave it be. The other...

Coming back to the oxygenation question: right now I'm fermenting 40 litres of pilsner that I no-chilled in 2 corneys. Each got a 5 L starter of WY2042. I pressurised each keg with O2 (the cylinder and regulator kit MHB sells), via the liquid post (no air stone), and shook them about, with the...

What's your batch size? For a "standard" batch of about 20 litres of standard gravity wort, a 5 litre starter is normally recommended. You get away with a smaller starter by pitching warm (maybe 19°C) and bringing the batch down to the desired fermentation temperature over a couple of days...

Check your hydrometer in 20°C water. It should read 1.000. If not, adjust any readings you take with it accordingly.