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I do mine at about 17 but this possibly isnt realistic for new brewers, just mentioned below 24 as that is top of fermentis temp range for us-05 and s-04 (15 - 24c). I have personally done a number of brews around 24c before I got a fermentation fridge and never had any problems with...

Try a decoction just for the hell of it.

If I have small hop cones that are turning brown, is it likely the sun is frying them (ie they look too small the be mature and has been pretty hot in perth the last few weeks)? I try to water them every couple of days and add some seasol every couple of weeks. Have noticed a number of leaves...

I think this has already been mentioned, but try using 1kg of light dry malt extract (or 1.5kg of light liquid malt extract) with whatever kit you brew and a better dry yeast like us-05 or nottingham. The malt will give a bit of residual sweetness and a better head on your beer, the yeast will...

If you are in a hurry you could probably also connect your gas to a beer disconnect and bubble gas out the dip tube at serving pressure to carbonate it a bit quicker.. though you may run the risk of beer shooting up your gas line if pressure drops for some reason.

Heating side is handy for preheating strike water in conjunction with an element/electrical timer if you think you might ever use it for that.

I have been using starsan at a ratio of 1.5ml per litre (from memory this is what they recommend?) and havent had an infection or any taste issues. If it is the same acid/ratio etc as starsan maybe try that? (7.5ml for 5L, I use a syringe or pipette if doing only a couple of litres) I use it in...

I would buy at least 3m of beer line then see how it pours, if it is still foamy try warming up and getting more co2 out of solution. Also be aware that if the tap is warm it can cause the first beer to be a bit foamy but the pour after that should be better.

They didnt mention it on the packet so I doubt it would entice lazy brewers (In fact they talk about rehydrating on the pack which fermentis don't so if anything their product sounds like more work to a new brewer)

I don't find it hard to aerate, just found it interesting that they specifically mentioned it wasn't needed.

Found this on their FAQ (http://www.danstaryeast.com/frequently-asked-questions):

Was just having a look through the nottingham dried yeast instructions online and noticed the following: "It is unnecessary to aerate wort." http://www.danstaryeast.com/sites/default/...m_datasheet.pdf Is this correct? Just about every bit of information I have read on all grain brewing states...

I vote porter

Got off my ass and went to bunnings and ended up with the following: Found some 90 degree elbow that connects to the wall outlet then took me forever to find a fitting to go from that to 20mm for garden hose attachment. Used some pope drinking water hose to hopefully avoid any funny tastes...

I have an outdoor shower and want to do the same thing, do you know what fitting you had to use to connect the hose to the shower head outlet?

My stick-on normally matches pretty closely what stc-1000 is reading taped to side of fermenter.

Maybe try a stepped mash then he can enjoy a beer bath at the protein rest.

As I understand even if you remove the hops the bitterness is still being extracted from alpha acids in solution (I believe I read someone say the alpha acids are still being isomerized). Thats why the checkbox is there.

It was no chilled, so slightly higher ibu that the recipe states (also less flavour/aroma from the late hops). I have no chilled all my brews so far and havent had a problem with lack of hop flavour. Not certain but I may have pitched an extra packet of us-05 which may have contributed also...

Just had a taste of an 'APA' I knocked up quickly to fill some empty kegs and it has a very strong caramel/toffee kind of flavour and almost none of the C type hops are showing through like I would normally expect. (Reminds me of some of the real ales I had when in london, mainly one of the...