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First of all this doesn't look to fit the retail section so I have moved it. I can't say I would be an expert but the answer likely depends heavily on the fermenter that the racking arm is going in. I have just bought a Blichmann conical and the racking arm seems to be about 1" into the...

Yer got it from Norther Brewer, $8 postage :) man it sucks over here.

This thread is worth a read if you are thinking of getting one. Certainly cheap thats for sure. I just lashed out on a Blichmann 14gal so not for me :) 7 gal is a good size for single batches, dunno about a 5gal sounds a little small to be worth the investment to me.

You want to airate before or just after pitching makes no difference. Just don't do it 3 days after pitching, the yeast need the oxygen early on not later. Sparging ... up to you each has advantages and disadvantages. Personally I fly sparge because I hate recirculating. I am trying this...

Brewery ...

14Gal Ferminator

I always think of references like Palmer's as a solid foundation that is based on the fundamentals from which you can get a great understanding of brewing to quite a practical or detailed level. It provides a good basis to help you evaluate differing techniques such as no chill, rims, herms...

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I tried this once and ended up giving up and just bought a new poppet :( cheaper alternative if you can get it changed provided its not the spring losing tension thats the problem maker. Good luck.

I think the question has been adequately covered.

For me its a late hop only, the beers I have used it for bittering in have all been pretty harsh :( a nice flame-out hop in an ipa but :)

For volume changes you can scale the recipe in proportion to the batch size (eg 50% of the hops & grain for half the volume). For AG the recipe would be using the posters efficiency so your system may be a bit different so you have to take that into account. There is a reduction in utilisation...

As others have said there is no getting it all out of the kettle and you just have to adjust your batch size so you are brewing more to account for the losses you will inevitably have. I have a piece of copper bent in elbow for my kettle pickup, I bashed the end flattish and wrapped it in SS...

Hey Sathid, In answer to your question you should be able to add some DME & hops to bring it up, I have never tried this after the bulk of the wort is fermented but cant see that it would be a problem just don't re-airate the wort since most of it is already fermented. I always check my gravity...

I used the blue drinking water stuff and had no worries but it was a pain to work with as it was quite rigid except when hot. Never had it collapse on me with a march pump. Since moving to th US I have gone silicon and it is brilliant stuff, a good investment. I would buy the good stuff now.

Now if you can put the lounge near enough so you can reach the tap ... bingo! ON a serious note I have always found I make a bit of a mess no matter how carefull I am in pouring beers so you better be diligent in cleaning or you may get in some strife with SWMBO.

Go the 300L, can never have too much cool space I reckon. I think I had a 300L and it fit 6 kegs if I used the hump so not sure you will get much more than 6 in? I could have my sizes mixed up however. I think 4 kegs is comfortable, 6 gives you plenty of options.

Not really :) Ordered a 40Gal SS pot with welded couplings from B3 this morning and it has already shipped ... man it sucks :icon_cheers:

Hmm sound sweet, I just bought a CGM-3D and its the ducks nuts so I am sure if it is the same mob running the show they will be good. I can't see this one breaking but so I will have to hold off :P

Just to make you all sick I just bought a 20lb cylinder full of gas for $130US, refils are $15 :) nice!