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Nar, single phase... they'll be driving 4800watt elements though. EDIT: If anyone has another idea, I just need to be able to quick disconnect so I can take the pots off and clean if I need to.. I do have quick disconnect tri-clover elements fittings but don't really want to remove them, rather...

Hi All, Just wondering if anyone might have some spare or know a good place for some 20/32amp screw connectors. I'll pay cash money! :) I was looking at some clipsals bit pricey ( I know they all are) just trying to make my budget go longer for my build...

That's a great idea... and when your in the dog house you can go out there a brew beers! win win.. :) -gav

The electric brewery site and forums are pretty sweet, I love all the different types of breweries floating about, although I hate looking at his basement reno, SO jealous.. If your up in Bendigo your more than welcome to come over and check out the kit, I should have the build workable hopfully...

Just two, it will be two Hot Water IN to the HLT and for my Chiller water from my tank. I still like the manual hose swapping. -Gav

Hi Guys, Finished running my Electronic Ball Valves, thought they might look a little ugly just connected so got a junction box and a few screw plugs.. Hopefully it'll look neat once installed on the wall. Here's a video , shows my control panel a little in use to.. Cheers Gavin.

Oh ****, your right.. Good catch Will fix that up.. -gav

So update again, Over the weekend I've completed the control panel wiring (minus elements which im waiting to be sent) so I've started to move onto the next things. Thought I'd pimp out my green pump cords to try and make them no so green pump may give them a paint job also, who knows or might...

Cheers man, Done!

Hi All, Currently building a control panel like the electric brewery, They don't sell their nice looking control panel labels on their site. Anyone know if I can source something like what they use locally in Australia? **Picture linked from www.theelectricbrewery.com Cheers Gavin

Nar didn't get XLR's had some left over connectors from previous builds so using them. they're http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/250V-4A-7-Pins-Electrical-Deck-Aviation-Connector-Adapter-Silver-Tone-/390759739817?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item5afb1871a9 XLR look better but these were...

Quick Update.. Spent some time this morning mounting my temperature probe quick disconnects, had to drill the mounting holes a little to allow for the bolt i had. PIDs are all connected and working same with the timer.. only have the pumps and the water in to the electrical ball valves to go...

Welcome to the fold, there is plenty of great information here.. I spent countless hours/months/years reading through and planning more beers more builds its very addictive.. Cheers Gav

I'd also make them DTDP

However small the current, if the unit was left switched on at the wall and to person thought it was off and left it in that state it would build up over time which could possibly make the element heat up. Also you're talking best case.. With the combination listed above (from electric brewery)...

For my elements I'm using a combination of a Solid State Relay with 12v switching with my PID and a selector switch to a 220v COIL DTDP Relay like above to complete my element circuit to the 20amp power in... I'm no electrician and correct me if I'm wrong people but from what I've read.... When...

You don't run the element through the switch, You use the switch with a relay which in turn switches the element on.. check out http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25393 helps explain it. Cheers Gavin

Quick Update People... Got the paint job finished on the Control panel and it came up better than expected, Apart from the bit on the front which looked like i tapped it with something so there's two small spots with no paint and I already put two coats of clear on top of it before I saw it...