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Yes. The consensus seems to be the ideal time to measure is around 15 - 20 minutes into the mash.

I'm not a pH expert or anything, but I've read a lot of debate as to whether or not to bother trying to adjust the mash on the fly. A lot of people seem to use mash pH as a "Something to note for the next brew" sort of thing. That being said it shouldn't take long to cool down a sample, it's...

Well I'll be damned. Good pick up.

pH measured at room temperature is the true pH. You want the pH to measure 5.2 at room temperature. Measured at mash temperature it will be incorrect.

Brewtas you are right. The graph clearly shows significantly larger yeast growth the faster the starter is stirred. The fastest speed grew almost twice as much yeast as the slowest speed.

35mL per sitting. "It should be poured like it’s whisky." Guys ... I think I'm pouring whisky wrong.

RIP IPA.

Some possibilities: Calypso Cascade Centennial Chelan Chinook Citra Cluster Columbus Crystal

7C's is different to normal Falconer's Flight. It is made of 7 hops starting with "C". Cascade, Centennial, Columbus, Citra, Chinook, etc. Not sure of the exact amounts.

How do you guys manage to get seals on PET bottles? I have never been able to get a proper seal on a PET bottle. I've since moved to glass bottles, but I would love to know PET bottle tricks and tips.

I change my salt additions depending on the beer I'm making. An amber ale will have different additions to a pale ale etc.

I'm going to go ahead and assume there is a reason it only costs $10.

Personally, I consider "craft beer" to be beer that is sold commercially by individual self-owned breweries. They are free to take risks and innovate. The opposite of craft beer in my mind is beer like Tooheys etc sold commercially by massive corporations brewed by externally controlled "drone"...

Assuming you're using a heating source at all. You don't need to wire anything to the heat part, it will work just fine with only the cooling part wired up.

I didn't know what any of those things were before I made my STC either. It's piss easy though. 1) Buy STC-1000 2) Buy extension cord 3) Buy 10 amp terminal block from Jaycar (just ask them for one, they'll know what it is) 4) Cut extension cord in half, then cut off a couple of 10cm...

I did follow some kind of diagram, I'm at work at the moment I will have to post it when I get home. There are a LOT of diagrams on the net of how to put them together but I found this one was the only one I could understand. You can screw the wires into the STC-1000 with no soldering required...

I have never done a single "DIY" electronic project in my life, and I managed to put together my STC-1000 in about 20 minutes. It could hardly be simpler. Not trying to be a dick or anything, it's mad easy. You don't have to solder anything, or glue anything, nothing like that. Just clip it in.

Some people find the combination of dark malts with very high sulfates to be unpleasant. I've never made a black IPA with Randy's profile myself so I can't attest to it personally. You also have to worry about mash pH - all the salts added with Randy's profile makes for a reasonably potent...

I use it for every pale ale and IPA. I've never had a problem, they've all come out nice and bitter with no discernible "mineral" flavour some people report from high sulfates. I wouldn't use it with a black IPA or other darker beer though, your mash might dissolve the kettle. Randy knows what...

How much do they weigh? Shipping would be a total bitch unless you wanted to import an entire container worth.