Search results

Thanks. I'll go and try this and report back. Cheers.

Yes, I've been following the threads but got a bit lost in the detail. The gypsum I have is from the brew shop so I hope it's ok. I'll look a the EZ Water Calculator spreadsheet and Brun's Water. I'm sure with a bit more study I'll catch up. Thanks

so. Do I adust the pH of the water and then test when the grain has been added and then re-adjust again at each brew until I get the pH near to 5.2?

I have just done a quick test. My water pH was 7.4 and I read that boling it and then letting it cool would reduce its Ph. It's now 8.5 !

I was going to try the Five Star Stabilser 5.2 as it looked like the magic answer to everything but then I read various articles on the Internet that said it was OK in certain circumstances where the water was quite close to the pH to start with. If it was too far out then adding more 5.2...

As you can probably gather, I've never done it before either but I've watched videos of master brewers who say how important it is to hit 5.2

Got myself a nice new Hanna pH meter today so I can now measure everything! My tap water has a pH of 7.4 and I have a bag of gypsum at the ready. When do I add it to reduce the pH to get it to 5.2? To the water before I add the grain? After I add the grain? etc. etc.

Hi, I'm based in the UK and have had a Braumeister 20l for about 4 months now and have done a few brews with it and I think I'm getting the hang of it. Each time I brew I eliminate another error or two so eventually I reckon I'll get it right. I'm using Beersmith 2 and have setup the Braumeister...

Yes, I've just tried that and Beersmith does have a conversion tool. I'm using Beersmith2 on the iPhone and it works well.

Thanks everyone. That all makes much more sense now so I'm almost ready to keg . A slight error in my boil volume calculations means I'll end up with a 5.9% instead of a 4.8% but oh well, I suppose I'll have to cope :-)

Very true, not much volume in the great scheme of things. I was just trying to be a bit too scientific perhaps? With the Morebeer SS fermenter I don't get to see what's happening inside - all I can do is draw off samples and test, so a bit like flying in fog - totally reliant on the instruments...

I thought the good thing about refractometers was that they didn't require a large volume of liguid to do the measurement. So if I have 14 Plato to start then from that moment on, the refractometer reading needs adjusting? How can I use a refractometer from beginning to end? (BTW, rather pleased...

Yes, got a hydrometer. So where I am at the moment, I could use the refractometer reading as the start and then use the hydrometer reading now

Just seen Jurt's edit and your comment Gap - interesting point which I hadn't appreciated. Thanks.

Yes, I reckon that's right, a few drops only takes a few seconds to cool when put in the refractometer plate so I can measure the gravity of the wort when it's hot.

No, it's temperature that affects refractometers. Mine's calibrated to 20 degC

This is for a 15l batch into the keg Name Description Step Temperature Step Time Mash In Add 25.00 l of water and heat to 38.0 C over 0 min 38.0 C 0 min Step 1 Heat to 53.0 C over 4 min...

I'm new to AG brewing and I've set myself up with a Braumeister 20L and a MoreBeer SS 7.5 gal conical. After a few mistakes I'm beginning to get to grips with the Braumeister but I still have a problem with stuck ferments (I think). My last brew had a OG of 14.0 Plato and after a good couple of...