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You don't want to purge Oxygen before fermenting, only after fermenting! Yeast likes o2 for the first part of its life cycle, and I wouldn't pre pressure the tank, let it build up on its own time. I pressure ferment all the time, or more so do a hybrid, very light pressure (1~3psi) for a day or...

Well I've used mine heaps and no sign of wearing, I think if you take particular care to align the 2 shafts (before mounting the coupling) as best you can by sight and something short enough with a straight edge checking X and Y axis, then the coupling has very little movement, therefore less...

LRAT, maybe you are unaware that the KK mill motor is a kit, with motor (with reduction gearbox attached), direct spider coupling drive and switch box. Everything you need for direct drive with less moving parts, unguarded pulleys and belt arrangement plus side force on the drive shaft from the...

I can vouch for the Keg King 90w Induction milling motor kit, it works very well, plenty of power at a constant 180 RPM, perfect!

There is no need to put CO2 bottle in your fridge.

If the kegerator is not built for hot environments, makes you wonder why it is being sold in Australia! I would go for a converted fridge that is built to cope with Queensland temps. Have a look around and ask people which fridges have no problems keeping food cold in your location. The sort of...

Agreed! A low cost and practical solution for home brew keg setup. See #2 post. I have a kegerator, but had a devil of a time trying to get it to pour properly, but since doing the "all in the fridge thing" , I have no issues at all, and I tend to like high carb levels in my beers.

Absolutely yes, its why pubs and breweries have expensive cold chilled font systems at the bar, if the temp changes to warmer from keg to tap, then co2 gas is going to be released from the beer in the line, and that creates foam. If you want good pouring, you must have good temp control all the...

Well, after burrowing into this website Heat Pump Water Heaters , it appears to me that there are quiet a few variants of these type of systems and "it depends" what your particular circumstances are. I can see that if your system is utilising both sides of heating and cooling aspects of a...

Hard to see that a running electric compressor developing high pressure gas and then using a heat exchange is going to be more efficient than an element in direct contact with the water and all the energy used is going straight into the water. As far as I know, you don't get something for...

Did the same kinda thing here with an old CPU heatsink. The fan is switched by a small transistor pulled from old pcb parts. CraftbrewPi4 on RPi3 controls the bias on the transistor directly (3.3v) with temp monitoring via a one wire DS18B20 installed into the base of the heatsink. By using a...

Nice brewing rig, but I would be creating ventilation holes and maybe a fan as well in that power box. SSR generate plenty of heat when they are dealing with high currents, and from what I can see, its got nowhere to go inside that sealed box.

What does it control?

Temperature and agitation of the liquid comes into play, the colder it is, the slower the gas is released over a given amount of time.

You need about 15~20psi warm CO2 saturation before you cold crash, or just put your gas on and leave it pressurized as you cool, then it'll be carbonated, or if you don't want to carb it up, put your co2 on really low psi and leave it attached as you cool.

I love finding little buried DIY gems like this! https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/carbing-conditioning-in-a-cube-before-keg.70056/post-1492931

I have a few bushes (small trees really) that are dripping with beautiful ripe berrys and it seems a shame not to use them for something other than perhaps making a bit of jam. I know there are a few old threads on this topic, but just wondering if there are any adventurous brewers who have...

What about induction setup for a kettle, any good?

All plants transpire water vapour to the air, so when the hop plant gets laden with flowers and they start to puff up, then the surface area and air flow of the Bract (Sheaves) is greatly increased thereby transpiring more water to the air, and hop plants are definitely not drought resistant.

Be careful that little pot doesn't get to hot and cook your hop plant and make sure they don't run out of water..as mine did over the weekend and damn near ruined my crop. The mongrel water tap timer battery went flat and I didn't notice it, and of course its in the middle of a hot dry spell in...