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. Most of us have the blowtie type, so to be able to switch them out for different psi is great. I do not know what the digital thing is you are talking about, sorry. If it's a square LCD that screws in place of the analog needle/dial ones, then yes, that would be great. But if it means buying...

great idea on the side by side tap on same keg test.

The 23's are good for pressure control to kegs etc... when aiming for 10-15psi, its a bit easier to adjust and control than the 30's

Excellent 👍

I have the ssbrewtech fermenter and 2 Brite tanks that i serve from. Everything is glycol chilled and transferred under pressure. The reason I ask is I have a Belgium dubbel in my fermenter and was thinking of naturally carbonating a couple of kegs and to age/condition for a few months. I don't...

@Grmblz do you find you get much sediment when naturally carbonating in a keg? Is it just a case of the first couple of pints being cloudy and the rest is ok?

Thank you, When we brew beer, we brew it for ourselves, yes, we like to share it with friends, but ultimately it is for ourselves A stout according to the book, is carbonated to roughly 2 volumes, for some that seems flat If you like your stouts fizzy and highly carbonated, go for it. Brew...

All I am saying is that if Darren naturally carbed in the keg, like you advised, and had his spunding valve at 15 psi, depending on his room temperature he is only making a 1.8 volume beer. So of course his beer is going to be flat. If he set his spunding valve to the target for the temperature...

Has anyone tried can conditioning instead of bottle conditioning? If so, how did it go, is there a specific beer level you targeted, as in, how much head space do you leave in the can? Thanks Daz

Hi, There is a flaw in this method. Carbonation depends on temperature and pressure. Using the carbonation charts available online you need to set your spunding valve at the pressure that corresponds to the volumes of carbonation you want, at the temperature you are carbonating. So for your...

Darren, here goes. 1. The beer chooses its own time, you cannot rush it, the same kit may take 4 days one time and 10 the next. There are a few factors, temperature is the main one. I grow my yeast in a starter and oxygenate before pitching and my beers have finished fermenting after 4 days. In...

I find I lose maybe .2 to .3 volumes during bottling from a keg. So if I was aiming for 2.5 volumes I would try to start with a keg at 2.8

It is really frustrating when you have a brand new kegging system and it just does not work. It takes a little bit of experimenting, time and patience, but eventually you get "your" system dialled in to "your" conditions and afterwards it's smooth sailing. Persevere with it, and you will get...

I'm talking about Mark (MHB) whom replied in this post. Check out post number 15,16 & 18 to start

Hi Darren, definitely. It's drinkable at 2 weeks, but the head and carbonation is not quite there, the extra week or so really makes a difference

Will you accept canned entries?

@DarrenTheDrunk - When you say you bought a second hand keggerator, did the kegs you are using come with it? It may be a good idea to swap out the posts for new ones. Or alternatively use your new kegs that you bought for your next batch, which should have no leaks etc and see where that gets...

What was the make up of your grist? Do you BIAB? I find that Pilsner malt seems to make more flour and is subject to scorching on the element. KL sells a power station that lets you dial down the percentage of power going to your element, so you can hook the element up to it and dial it down to...

lol, knocking up a female

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