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Righto, Malt Vienna Malt 13.8% Carafa @ Type 3 0.5% Pilsen 33.8% Aromatic 4.6% Dark Candi Syrup (home-made) 17% Brown Sugar 15% LDME 15% Step Mash - 57 for 15min, 63 for 45, 74 for 25 Challenger 60min to 7.3 IBU Styrian Goldings 20 min to 1.7 IBU 1 pkt T-58, rehydrated OG 1.110 So...

I've been looking for a stainless basket to replace the biab bag for ages, and can't find anything the right size. I have a feeling that if the grains were able to swim a bit more than they can in the bag, I'd get improved efficiency, so a steel basket with a spindle down the middle from which...

3 fermenters in a bar fridge! Are you fermenting in longnecks? :)

http://brewbit.com/ These things look the bomb - dual probes, hot / cold switching - wifi enabled for browser control and temp logging. Step mashing? Ramped ferment? no freaking tiny buttons and lcd panels? Well, looks good to me. Could build a whole brewery around that little number.

this! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Thermoline-30L-800W-Hot-Water-Bath-Sous-Vide-/131009293497?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Restaurant_Catering_Equipment&hash=item1e80c32cb9#ht_409wt_1399

Minor change brings us to v3 Added a sugar selection menu, including DME (DME currently rated as requiring 40% more than sucrose more to achieve same carbonation. Not all DME is the same, and not all online calculators agree with each other on calculating DME. Consequently, no guarantees on...

You shouldn't worry about that - make sure you boil the water and DME for a while first to make a syrup, then use that. A syrup shouldn't ever separate into sugar and water

Well, clearly a good way, but not the only way as the many replies to this thread attest. I outline my difficulties with BP above - but accept it's probably my personal method that's at fault. Having said that, 1 less fermenter to clean is a major reason why bulk prime via syringe has my...

I finally had a chance a few weeks back to use the v2 syringe priming spreadsheet and it worked, I am happy to say, a bloody charm. Carbonation exactly where i wanted it. Very pleased - if anyone else has some success with it, do let me know, would be nice to see someone else making use of it...

Anyone know how to replace the original file with the new one in the top post?

If anyone is interested, here's the updated version with bulk prime calculator (including syringe option)

I like the syringe method mentioned above - and i was just thinking about adding some hops to a brew awaiting bottling in the shed when I thought - why not hop the priming sugar. Use the french press method to make hop tea, add your priming sugar, and bulk prime or syringe as needed. Hell, all...

Exactly as I used to do it, but I still managed to get some nearly flat and some gushing bottles. I since moved to using a long plastic spoon to give it a good stir.

There's a chap in Daylesford, VIC, who brews a lot of English style numbers and sells them around the local farmers markets. He has some pretty great brews, but the interesting thing to me was he doesn't prime at all, but calculates the finishing CO2 based on gravity drop. I think he said he...

That won't be a problem - I never start bottling until safely fully pissed

I generally don't for most beers. But if I'm dry hopping, i will. I recently brewed up a Christmas Ale which had cinnamon sticks and vanilla pods in the secondary for about a fortnight (amazingly good btw) - if I'd thrown them into the primary they'd sink into the yeast cake and do nothing. but...

As per the spreadsheet showing the different sugar amounts required, I'll make up a few spoons based on the bottles I use. I'll probably make a few sets for different carbonation levels. Since I use probably 3 maybe 4 bottle sizes, it wont be that many to make up.

Yep, I misunderstood. "Green beer, i.e. beer that has finished fermenting and is ready for bottling, is saturated with carbon dioxide because it has had CO2 bubbling through it continuously during fermentation. ....... the CO2 level depends on the temperature (at which fermentation was...

@Truman - I think I should remove or edit that note - both are factors, but essentially temperature determines the readiness of the beer to absorb CO2 (as I understand it) - which I'm guessing is why when you have a jug of water in the fridge, then bring it out to the warm, you get little...

Further to an earlier thread talking about bottle sizes and priming (and my perhaps unreasonable distaste for bulk priming) I slapped up a spreadsheet to work out how much sugar (POS) is required (in grams) for different bottle sizes. I'll need to pick-up some fine scales to use it - pretty...