Search results

I'd do the latter, dry hop in primary and just transfer it for the priming and bottling stage. The dextrose amount depends on style but also your own tastes. For pale ale type beers I used to use about 180g in 25 litres, so that'd probably be a little over 150g in 22 litres. I'd start with 150g...

What's the recipe? Hopefully no long boiled Galaxy in there. Anyway it all sounds pretty normal process wise. Only things I really do differently are use 11L more water than the intended batch size, put the bag in before I heat the water up and heat it to about 3-4 degrees above target mash...

I just put a batch into a 25L Bunnings cube last brew day. I haven't pitched it yet but it's next into the fermenter. Others have used them without issue though so I'm not expecting any problems.

I've tried it but I couldn't taste anything other than a light malt flavor and a bit of bitterness to balance it. Pretty bland beer really, but I've probably had too many big hoppy ales.

I do a variation of this with my yeast starters, leaving the flask sitting on the stove to cool to room temp before pitching them (obviously covered with foil). I think it would be fine if you put hot wort into it and let sit overnight then pitched yeast first thing the next morning, but if...

I don't like cling wrap on fermenters much. It just seems too flimsy for me. Could also be that the only time I tried it the beer turned out ****** horrible. My airlock never bubbled once when I was using it, and then one day the grommet perished. Rather than buy a new one I just taped over...

Yes, I didn't use Teflon tape on mine. I did try it initially but gave up pretty quickly. It's great on my urn fittings though haha. I ended up using some kind of white silicone which stopped the leak. I dunno if it's food grade or not but it hasn't caused any problems. I suppose it's not coming...

Not sure if it's the same stuff or not, can't get the link to load, but something like the above suggestion I think would be better. At least then you only have to do it once. Sent from my Agora 4G+ using Aussie Home Brewer mobile app

I tried Teflon tape on my manifold and it did **** all, but I don't know if it was gas grade or not. Sealed them all up with silicone about 3 years ago and haven't had a problem since. If I get another one at some stage I'll be doing the same even if it isn't leaking, just in case it starts at...

This is how mine is set up. The long line runs from the regulator to the end of the manifold with those other lines heading into the kegs. You can use a dual pressure regulator but it's not really necessary unless you want different beers at different carbonation levels. One thing I'd suggest...

Those are cool. I just recently got a small 500g scales for measuring out mineral salts and hop additions. It measures to .01g and is a lot easier than using the bigger scales that I use for grain. I like that two in one set up though.

I have my gas bottle outside the fridge, connected to a four way manifold, with three lines running in through the back of the fridge to the three kegs and a spare fourth line outside for purging etc. You only need one gas line per keg. None of these lines is 2 metres, I cut them to different...

You're gonna get 400 different opinions on what the best taps are because everyone has their own favorites. Personally, I like my flow control because I don't have room for shitloads of beer line inside my kegerator, it would just be a mess and a ****** pain in the arse removing and replacing...

Agreed with above, I've not had any problems with beer going flat or anything from my FC taps either. They've been in use on the kegerator for 3 years and I imagine they'll continue to be in use for years to come as well.

Not entirely because DME ferments out for the most part. There is a portion of unfermentable sugar in it, but it's not a whole lot, maybe 20%.

Just drink more, get rid of it quickly and get the buzz at the same time lol

Maltodextrin doesn't ferment, which means it results in a higher FG. Probably is an unnecessary addition in a lot of cases. See how it tastes before you ditch it. I know it's personal preference but I'd rather have a keg of midstrength that tastes good than an empty keg any day.

I know that. So a kit and 1.2kg dry stuff. My OG prediction was low, my mistake, but it still won't be 1.052 in 23 litres. A kit and kilo in 23 litres only gives about 1.038, another 200g isn't gonna push it up 14 points. It'd probably be somewhere around 1.040-42.

The volume of the brew is important to know here. If it was mixed to 23 litres then the 1.052 OG is way off. With those ingredients it'd be more around 1.036-37. One thing you could try is raising the temperature a few degrees then check it again in a few days. 1.023 if that is the actual...

I just boil some water and citric acid in the urn then scrub what's left of the muck off with stainless steel wool because the boiling removes the vast majority of it anyway. Takes hardly any effort and comes up like new every time. Most of the time taken is just waiting for the water to cool...