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Stainless steel big W stock pots (19L with glass lid). Whack some duct tape round the lid to seal it.

Gladfield pilsner malt and NZ Cascade hops made quite a nice simple brew. Esky makes a great mash vessel (that's what I had originally). I do like the idea of Biab though as there's less complications and easy cleaning up. It makes great beer too.

I have a bicycle with a dynamo

Fair point but im not sure what denotes a high performance application? Palladium coated electrodes work similarly to platinum ones don't they? And they are cheaper? btw it's a great idea, I'm just brainstorming to get the price point down... My Picks: "Oxy-nator" "Gen-Ox"

But it's on the internet. It must be true?

Palladium coated? Can it be bicycle powered? https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Medical-Titanium-Palladium-Coated-Congener-to-Platinum-Platinized-Electrode-/332049558602?nav=SEARCH

Boil off from about 12.5 litres leaves me 10.5 litres to go into fermenter. This comes close to filling the 9.5 litre keg after fermentation. I have a separate mash vessel - made out of a 10L chinese stainless food warmer (was about $60 on ebay). I basically just sparge til I have the desired...

Howzit Yeado Am also not far away - in Ballina. Not a patch on Bribies experience, but similar to yourself I'm doing 10L batches (Big W stock pot fermenters/boiler and10L kegs).. Shout out if you need anything. Happy brewing mate.

Yep agree pulling out the bung is the tricky bit, I find that it works best if you do it slowly and wiggle it out gently.It does get a bit messy though. Am doing a couple dozen this week too.

Technique. The pressure inside the bottle must be at or above the pressure of the liquid entering the bottle. When you pull the bung out there will be foam, but if you're relatively quick you can whack a cap on without too much trouble.

There is minimal frothing because the pressure inside the bottle is the same pressure that the beer is entering the bottle. That's the whole point.

Slightly OT, but when I was making up a bunch of agar - the quickest way to heat it was to bung the beaker in the microwave. No need for hot plates/gas or mucking about. Just do a few test runs to work out how long on which power level to get it heated without boil over.

^mmm... but if you drop the pressure in the keg (carbonated at 13psi) to 5psi and push it into a bottle at 5psi before uncorking it to put a cap on, . Will it not at least lose some carbonation? I prefer to pressure the bottles up to a similar pressure to carbonation pressure.

About 12psi at 4 degrees works for me. I try to chill the bottles too before filling.. If you bottle early enough (within a month of kegging) the yeast still has a little life I think and will generate a bit more CO2 in the bottle in addition to the forced carbing.

The yeast will gobble up the oxygen if there's still a bit of meat on the bone. But if no sugar - then I suspect the O2 will oxidise the beer. Force carbed beers which have been fully fermented out prior to kegging/bottling are the ones that need to be handled with kid gloves.

Firstly, you have an awesome wife. Secondly as mentioned above try a bit of pressure/lube and try some plumbing tape or liquid thread sealer on the out post thread.

Was thinking about this the other day too in reference to how long to leave in primary before racking to a keg (before forced carbonation). That is current wisdom appears to leave in Primary for up to 3 weeks to clean the beer up, however - preferably (I'm thinking) it's better to transfer...

Good tip TW, yes the glass rim seems to sit in a rubber seal which after all these years may possibly have perished - worth a run with water to check out. LC - you mean diatomaceous earth (or similar) used in wine (and beer?) filtering. On occurrence of a filter blow out, would be filtered back...

Nectarines coming into season up here, a plan is forming.....

Found the other bit - another filter plate and bowl. The glass steel frame has EKWIP" and a number stamped into it. Filter paper? Gotto be filtration unit...