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I don't go by the airlock mate, I generally take hydro samples and dry hop when fermentation reaches about 1.020, normally coinciding with my temperature bump for diacetyl rest and full attenuation. I'm pretty sure with this batch though I dry hopped after crashing (eg after full attenuation)...

I'm with you there, I just found that the maltyness of the grain bill completely took over the American style I was going for. To be fair, I was trying to be restrained (for once) and I just missed the mark. I think I used about 50g of Amarillo and Chinook in a 27L batch and you would think I...

At a minimum, I would double your dry hop for an American style. My first and last attempt at an American Amber Ale was atrocious - it has come out as this extremely malty roasty thing.

Pretty gutted about this. Surely they were successful enough as it was, to not need to do this for the money? Unless they're trying to step away from the business a little, but even that rings alarm bells for how this pans out.

I use RO water for all of my brews and while the EZ Calculator says Na should be anywhere up to 150, I think you'll find 42ppm quite salty. They say anything over 75ppm can become quite harsh. Personally I don't see the need for the baking soda. I would drop the gypsum back, add some calcium...

what temp are you going to mash at? your FG seems higher than it should be, but I don't know too much about that particular yeast strain. I have brewed several 1.054 ales and when pitching the correct amount of yeast, nearly always finish at 1.010-1.012. Also, what water are you using and how...

I'm assuming these kegmenters don't have a tap and require pressure transfer? How do you go dry hopping loose hops? clogged posts?

I've never done no chill, so can't help you with the schedule, but if you're looking for more flavor and less bitterness, just remove the 15 and 5min additions and bump up your flameout numbers. I regularly brew beers with no hop additions until flameout (most ales my earliest addition is 5min)...

The best way that this was explained to me, is this: pour yourself two glasses of water and add a couple of hop pellets to one of them. let it sit for a few minutes and then taste both. The one with pellets will have a) a certain amount of flavor and b) bitterness. Also, if you read a few...

why don't you just ditch the 40min addition and add more into the cube? I've never no-chilled before, but often do only whirlpool additions. I don't know what batch size you make, but 30g dry hop also seems very light. Assuming you do standard 23L batches, that's only 1.3g/L. Try 3g/L as a start...

I pretty much don't bother with anything under 5g/L these days. Done less, done more... found this to be the sweet spot for me. Also really depends when/how you dry hop (at what point of fermentation, temperature, duration etc etc)

FYI this beer is now kegged, refrigerated and carbing up. Finished at 1.016 for 6.8% and 60 IBU. Tastes bloody delicious and the melon/mango/passionfruit aroma smells like juice. In the end I left it at 1 degree (once it got there) for a weekend, dry hopped on the Tuesday, then kegged last night...

Difference is, last beer was an ale, which was basically at 18 degrees for the full 10 days of dry hopping (except the last 48-72 hours of cold crashing). I'm just interested to see whether anyone has experience dry hopping a lager and has worked out the best method. I haven't had much success...

Hi everyone, After some advice on dry hopping an Indian Pale Lager. I made an Indian Helles Bock, that I then pitched the entire WLP860 Munich Helles yeast cake into from a 1.050 Munich Helles that I lagered in the FV for a month. The Helles Bock went off like a rocket, with about 12-24 hours...

I'm all out of free keg space, so considering doing some cubing so that I can still brew. I don't see the issue with doing all of my recipes as normal and just transferring into a sanitized cube, ensuring there is zero headspace when I put the lid on. Most of my recipes I let naturally cool to...

Welcome mate. I'd highly recommend the grainfather if you're looking to "jump in the deep end." By that, I mean forking out a substantial amount of money before you know whether it's for you. In terms of ease of use, I can't recommend it enough. I started out doing BIAB small batches in a 20L...

Just thought I'd put this here for anyone struggling with efficiency issues. I have started turning off my pump during the mash, about every 10min, and letting the water above the top plate filter back down through the grain bed. I never really had issues with efficiency, however I've gone from...

I'll have a think about it mate..... I don't leave until early October, so I'll put some thought into it. I have a mate who is happy to look after and store all of my stuff while I'm gone.

Mmmmm I honestly have no idea mate, but I'd probably want more for my complete setup. I'm only overseas until May 2018 as well, so I'm not desperate to offload it. I was thinking: - Fermenting Fridge + Inkbird controller: $80 - 215L Fisher and Paykel Keezer painted in black with pine collar and...

what sort of ballpark figure are you looking for? I'm moving overseas shortly and have a mate who is going to look after my gear, but I could be tempted to sell for the right price.