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No idea, but you are 100% right that the big breweries are the ones that determine what they produce. Spoke to a guy I know at JW malting and they were working on a bigger chit base malt to see if they could score some 'major brewer brand' contract malt. Because that is what they wanted. At...

Discuss. Seriously, though. I love 3724, finally brewed a Saison I was happy with. Love the dry, tart, almost lemony esters and phenoly profile of it. After trying all the dried equivalents, I've found the yeast I love. Trouble is that is a toll roaded 60km round trip to obtain some. Or...

The citra was a fresh pack in this case, but I know some of my hops are getting there, albeit I'm pretty good with sealing. When I lived in Tasmania, getting hops was a bulk Yob affair, so I got good at it.

Still boil for 60-90 minutes as usual, I just don't hop it until the cube. Grain to brain in 7 days, with 80g of hops in the keg. Not likely to be that.

I'm re-necroing this thread. I've not been happy with my last few IPA - basically for the last 8 months (when I Brewed one with my brother at his place). Water additions, a staggered IBU attempt to get the punchy hop aroma, and last beer was keg hopped - an improvement but not a fantastic...

I know I won this a few years back and gave detailed feedback, which brewers really appreciated. I sometimes got the odd extra bottle later from a brewer asking me to identify 'what was wrong' with the beer.

Almost. @Yob (ooh, this atting thing does work), did you ever find a frost free solution - specifically something to container the vial holder? DAS and couldn't find the final solution.

I have. BB Ale is great in American stuff, as is Gladfield (though I find the latter to be cleaner in flavour). I find it one dimensional in British beers, especially given that British Ales tend to be very simple beers in terms of grist and hop additions. TFFMMO is so much maltier. Not...

Wasn't a massive fan of their American Ale - too light for mine. Am using their regular ale and compares pretty well with other English Pale Ale Malts, but not as malty for mine as, say, a Maris Otter. Given the last bulk buy had Bairds Pale as cheap as Gladfields, I opted to return back to that.

I was explaining to a Kiwi bird that Hobart is such a pretty city and they've kept all their Georgian architecture. Never ceases to amaze me that they keep building Brisbane uglier and uglier. It's like they think they can be a Hong Kong (they never will) instead of preserving the heritage it...

It's when she comes for your nuts with a blunt pair of scissors that you worry. Until then, it's just noise.

Quick AIPA because a keg blew and SWMBO doesn't appreciate the finer points of mild, and it's too not hot to brew a Saison (something she will knock down nicely): 25L 5kg Pale Ale .2kg Dark Crystal 20g Simcoe at 60m 20g Mosaic at 0 (no chill) 20g Cascade at 0 (no chill) 20g Chinook at 0 (no...

Under the advice of Anthony from CB I removed the spring from my intertap SS.

Assume that Dr Rudi is there only as bittering and you want a cream ale or some single bittering type ale: 5kg Maris Otter 200g Crystal medium 25g Dr Rudi at 40 minutes (which with no chill is effectively 60m) to 25IBU. s04 will be adequate, I'd go MJ M44. Mash in at 63 degrees. single...

I struggle to get bleach into the garage, let alone Hydrochloric acid.

Plenty of online step mash calculators around that do the job, I just put it in the notes alongside the water adjustments.

Nah, citric acid. I'll see the hydrochloric but don't anticipate getting it into the house.

Splitters are awesome. Also got the micromatic secondary reg. Awesome investment. Does lower carbonated beers on the same line and I can isolated carbonated beers whilst force carbing a new keg.

Where do you get it from?

BB Pale is actually quite good. Not mad in British beers but deals with American, Aussie and even Belgian pales go okay with it. Saw truck loads of bags of it outside newstead brewing one day, so obviously they have no problems with it.