Search results

Go for it! tell us how it turns out (and take some pics)

Been there a few times, nice beer. micro-breweries are popping up all over the lower south west, good times :D

perhaps, though the chances are slim. I dont think the western australian climate is renowned for supporting a wide variety of wild yeasts. Sounds to me like alot of posts on ahb, that is your beer is probably fine and your worrying about nothing. Yeast can do strange things sometimes, but thats...

Infection or no infection - if it tastes good drink it, if it tastes bad bin it. too easy

ok, thanks for clearing that up

how much yeast are we talking about? my beer is always crystal clear by the time i come to bottling (no secondary or chilling) and after secondary fermentation theres only the thinnest layer of yeast on the bottom ~1mm I havn't seen too many other homebrews so i dont know what is the 'normal'...

bottle a wheat beer and leave it for a month. what do you see? a crystal clear beer! In germany most people pour out 90% of the beer from the bottle and swirl the last bit to bring the yeast into suspension before adding this to the glass. you can filter a wheat if you want a crystal weizen...

I can see the use of crash chilling to drop out excess yeast from a low flocculating variety if your going to force carb in a keg, but if you bottle, the yeast will just come back due to the addition of priming sugar anyway so whats the point? am i missing something here? I dont rack to...

coopers wheat tin and the coopers liquid wheat malt is best, leave the dex and malt for other styles

If you are concerned about it just go for the SS chiller. you wont be able to enjoy your beer if your worried it may be killing you.

im sure somebody will have a better description, but to summarize: dry hopping is adding hops AFTER the boil, when fermentation is starting to slow down you add your hops to the beer and let them swim around until they sink to the bottom a few days later.Some people suggest placing your hops in...

as far as KITS go, crystal isnt always a great idea. good for darkening, adding sweetness and body if your beer needs it. most kits finish high anyways, if you want to darken a(kit) beer a simple boil would suffice and a touch of wheat malt is more effective at head retention than crystal imo...

does your lhbs sell dry wheat malt? if not just use the kit and liquid wheat malt, no dex. try wb-06 dry wheat yeast, its alright. and dry hop with some nice german hops. this is similair to how i make mine and its got heaps of flavour, like a wheat should. dont give up on wheat beer

coopers cerveza is meant to be a lager style beer and with a kilo of ldm it will end up more like an ale. I would reccomend using coopers be2, since it contains mainly dextrose with a pinch of malt so you will end up with a beer that has a thinner body, lower fg and will be more in style with...

all the way through? hmmm.. dont floaties normally float? perhaps you have a case of the chunkies

Why would you bother sterilizing the hydrometer?

I always thought it was the unfiltered yeast that gave homebrew its power

wild yeast infection?

Tc is the temp of your beer