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I use bleach and often leave fermenters soaking for several days. Mine just get drained well, rinsed well with cold water then given a wash out with a phosphoric acid based steriliser and a final rinse with boiled water. The bleach solution is weak. Pretty close to the 30-50ml per 25-30l...

I started almost exclusively on Coopers kits, so I can't help with an opinion on the Morgans. One of the regular posters here has set up this site which may help: Kit Reviews Some of the Morgans get reasonable wraps there. My favourite kit is the Coopers Pale with the Coopers Brew Enhancer 2...

I picked up a couple of 22l water jerry cans from Bunnings. I used to stick a fermenter into the fridge, but why use a perfectly good fermenter for extended cold conditioning when it could be used for preparing the next brew to go in the jerrys???? :D Not a kegger myself, but mates who do...

I've never gone to the trouble of straining out the hops. If they're strained with grains, fine, but if they're added late, they stay in. Never had a problem.

I like the way you guys think. 30 minute boil only for the POP and back off the bitterness to 15 or 20IBU?

This offer has been posted on this site for a while. 2 keg system landed in Perth for less than $400? Keg System Special I think you'll have to be quick though. June only I believe.

I'm happy to act as a second target for the flame throwers Justin. I find it's a lot of hops for the effect. I prefer them boiled for 10-15m for flavour and 0-2m for aroma and leave it at that. To each their own.

I use LME and use about 150g for just under 1.5l which puts me in the same ballpark as the 100g/l DME starters. vlbaby, Most times I taste my starters. I wash my yeast, but only with cooled boiled water, no acid yet, so I like to make sure the yeast is still sound. It can be an interesting...

I gave this one a little more thought as I nursed it through a total of 3 blowouts through the day. I suspect the problem was actually excessive yeast in the starter. Normally I pitch the starter pretty much as soon as it reaches krausen. This particular starter I let brew out a little further...

Any time I'm using a kit I tend to add about 1g/l of hops. That tends to appeal to most tastes. If it's just for me I'll do something very similar to barfridge and step it up to around 2g/l - half flavour, half aroma. To start with I'd suggest about 15g boiled for 10-15mins, and 10g at 0-1min...

I think you've identified the problem. I've never used this tin before - I don't normally use tins anyway, and now I remember why. I always console myself with these pics when I worry about big krausen... Exploding fermenter I'm leaving mine to ferment with the lid off until she settles...

I've just suffered my second ever krausen through the airlock saga, and was wondering what may have caused it. I've had big headed ferments before and can generally anticipate them, so I can use a blow off tube or underfill the fermenter, but this one stumped me. The main causes I've found in...

And just to add some confusion, I always refer to LIQUID Malt extract as LME and DRY Malt extract as DME. I do agree with the IPA though!!! What's the consensus on LME/DME?

Munich malt can make a dramatic difference. I've made stouts and porters with Munich in place of standard ale malts like Joe White - say around 2kg or so substituted - and received very favourable reports from SWMBO. Yeasts like 1007 and 1338 make a difference compared to 1028 or 1084 as well...

Addictive? I was happily binning paper balls thinking "Jeez I'm good, when does my score come up?" Then I noticed that the scores reset when you miss!!!! Now stop annoying me. I've got paper to throw!!!

Fishermen!!!! Always exaggerating. Photoshopped was it????? :D Awesome pic.

Does anyone actually WORK at work???? :( :( Way too much time. :lol: :lol:

Smack packs will take longer with cooler temperatures. Once smacked keep the pack on top of the fridge or another warm place to get them activated quicker.

What was the original brew, yeast etc. I've certainly had brews kick off again when racked to secondary and deposit yeast clumps on the surface. I've had the same dilemma as you. By torchlight, through condensation on the lid, the imagination is left to run riot. I've never had my worst fears...

OG is useful for measuring alcohol content and expected FG. Later when you start mashing it's essential for measuring extract efficiency. At this stage the stability of the FG is more important. Getting into the habit of taking OG will help with the whole learning curve though. I tend to agree...