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I spent 30 minutes with the tool on the lid, it's not a matter of grip on the body or using a cheater bar or anything, the rubber in the tool just slips on the lid because the grooves on the lid are so small that It can't even get grip. I'm able to get grip on the body, the tool just doesn't...

So bought one of these and have no end of problems. The main bottom cone ring leaked and the collection cup leaked. Managed to get the bottom cone ring sealed after disassembling a few times, collection cup I had 4 different goes at different tightness (including different amounts of keg lube)...

Yep I realise that, which is specifically why I asked if anyone has had any issues in cleaning the product without using hot water...

Cheers. Has anyone had cleaning issues with being unable to use hot water in these?

The magnetic stir bars are powerful enough to hold up 200g+ of dry hops?

I don't trust cheap rare earth magnets. Is there any reliable way to make these inert? Like a thin silicone covering for the inside magnet?

Can you honestly and without any shadow of a doubt say that you have read every single line of every single operating manual from every single thing you've purchased? Especially any electronic devices or appliances, they often come with warnings that MOST people completely ignore. What about...

So are these units just these 20L kegs, with modifications to the lid? http://www.oxebar.com.au/kegasaurus/index.php/20l-kegasaurus I wonder how well the PET will handle the far more physically demanding nature of a keg - ie being dropped, rolled around, etc. I've known PET to crack from point...

Has anyone had much success doing micro (eg 10L) batches in the Guten? I would imagine that you either need a BIAB setup or you need some mini removable mesh malt bucket with short feet to keep the malt pipe off of the bottom of the Guten. A 10L batch with no sparging would use about 18L...

Most recommend dry hopping a couple days before primary fermentation is complete actually, so that any oxygen you add to the fermenter is used up by the yeast.

So what's the consensus then for filtering cold break short of getting a new false bottom? Helix is blocking up entirely with any decent sized grain bill. Is an upstand bazooka filter & hop spider over the fermenter the best way?

The smaller 40L guten + whirlpool arm doesn't cone the trub at all in my experience, not enough flow to get any kind of whirlpool going, but it does provide some useful circulation while cooling.

On the duotight fitting page: No clamps necessary! We do recommend cutting your hosing straight, not on an angle, to ensure the line has a complete seal. To remove the fitting simply push in the collet and the hose can be removed. These push in fittings are suitable to be used up to 100 psi.

Have a link to your recipe?

That goes away after your first few posts, it's a necessary evil to stop the spammers unfortunately.

Just add a thermowell if you want one, don't wait for them to release one. A hole saw through the lid and $15 thermowell from aliexpress and you're sorted.

I've never used a 3v to compare it to, but the electric at 2400w will likely heat slower than most LPG burners. However the time you really save Imo is the time spent actually doing stuff. You fill it with water, set mash temp and walk away. When it beeps, come back and mash in, if you want to...

I like my Guten and can't say much wrong about it, I think the consistency you can get in terms of exact temperature profiles while mashing will make the biggest difference in your beers, a SS fermenter is nice but it is definitely a purchase to be made much later down the track. The other...

Kind of defeats the whole purpose of the heating belt then, may as well just use any old heating source. I've experimented using ambient heating rather than direct contact and it is extremely inefficient. If it is quite cold outside of your chamber (probably not too much of a problem in aussie...

Good point, the heater belts definitely get above 50 degC on the surface of the belt, I wonder if it would deform the PET over time.