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The magnet is too heavy for the fan to move...$#!%%^& - be good to extract the bar out of the flask though - it is soooo strong

It might if I let it set for a while - praps I'll try it if there is no other solution - thanks Glen

I have just assembled my little jobby in a lunch box, relying on this thread. Thanks Wolfy and others. Just waiting on my ebay magnet which is a rare earth bar magnet 50mmx15mmx10mm for use with a 35mm stirbar (or I will get a 50mm one if needed). I'm wondering if I have overkilled on the...

Before my first AG (read: knowing SFA) I bought an infrared heater (a metal coil jobby used for therapeutic heat on muscles etc) for my fermenting fridge at a blind auction for peanuts. I'm now wondering is this appropriate or safe? it will give out pretty serious heat, but I would use a...

wyeast 1272 American II for an IPA It has seriously dropped now. i guess my question is - is it OK to shake the beer at this stage to encourage the drop?? - Patience is not one of my stronger virtues - but it has always gone down in 3 days in the primary

5 days in primary - usually drops in 3 - shook it up a bit and it dropped and got the yeast activated - lots of activity in the air lock - 24 hours should settle it for transfer to 2ndry?? - I'm on my 4th AG only and just feeling it out - newb personified

old thread I know - but I've had krausen not drop for 5 days now and have just given the primary a shake - it dropped it like a hotcake - will rack tomorrow...Hoping this is an Ok solution???

Yes Hawko thanks - Plasdene seem to be in all states - it is a big company and has an array of products that are interesting for home brewers. And thanks to everyone for taking the time to reply to my request for info. Some great advice. Tony

Thanks Kev a secondary will be my procedure always. Length of time - a week to 3 months

I'll take all that on board thanks - at the finish I feel sure you are saying that I can store beer in xtra kegs at 17-18 degrees for a long period if I follow the procedure you outline ?- I would use the CraftBrewer beer-filter - gravity connector. Not sure about "avoiding chunky bits" - do...

Thanks for the reply milob Somebody suggested 30 L is better because the larger size helps to prevent over-bubbling if you have a really vigorous fermentation. I had a look at those Bunnings jobbies and rejected them because they looked a bit difficult to clean - Unscented nappi-san sounds...

I too got my minimill recently. Searching around I have settled on 0.96mm for a mill speed of a tad over 100rpm (worm-gear reduced electric motor) - Put it to the visual test in a week I hope.

Apart from my fermenters (I want 3x30 L ones) I am now set up for my first AG experience I have rejected the conical ($$$s), Better Bottles (hot water intolerance and flex when full) and glass (weight and safety) leaving me with plastic. Two options there I think 1 The screwtop lid...

My mate has found a sheet of 1.6 mm perforated ss sheet in his shed - and he can weld stainless. Seems to me that the liquid will get through it eventually and it may mean less crud ??? Thanks for your reply

I have searched this site and not found a great answer for me - just getting my gear together for AG and I have the option for my mash tun false bottom to have hole apertures of 1.6 or 2.0 mm . I suspect that both are O K - but is one preferred over the other?? Many tx Tony

not usre where the last bit of the post came from - its not mine

Thanks guys for all your replies: Mine is 55litres. It would mean that I would have less than 125 mms of material in the mash - I'm told that 300 is optimum for good screening. However, I'll look into that further. 19 litres because I have only 2 kegs and intend to have two different...

Hello My first post. I am trying to assemble an AG set-up and want to cut costs where I can. I have a 55 litre esky which I was hoping to use as a mash tun. Only doing 19 litre batches and I think I need to reduce the interior space of the esky to about 35 litres to get optimum height of the...