Search results

I'm lucky to get 75% mash efficiency. :angry2: But at least my beer tastes nice

Hi Willie, consider hose clamps on the output of the main pump where it goes into the autosparge, the deadheading of the pump when the float shuts the flow off could cause a bit of a dribble without a clamp. Dave

That's mabrungard's website. He has a great spreadsheet too.

You can also use void setup() { pinMode(BUTTON_PIN, INPUT_PULLUP); } and just use the switch to pull the input pin to ground and get rid of the resistor. Saves a bit of wiring but now the pressed button is LOW i.e. void loop() { if (digitalRead(BUTTON_PIN) == 0) {...

Hi, I am not familiar with the unit you have but I have built a Matho's one. I'll try and help.

On mine there was, I used the bolt in type into a T piece so the hot liquid would flow past it (I got it from sure electronics, they have an eBay store). If yours has a shield it will be easy to spot, there is +5V Ground, data and the forth one if present will be the shield. In my case I made...

Hi Slugger, how is your shielding on the temp probe? I had a ground loop on my set-up that did similar things when I hooked up the temp probe in the HEX (4V system). Regards, Dave

Also, if the wrong ports were used you would have bottle pressure in your gas lines, the lines would burst in an instant and the room would full of icy snow.

Dry hopped! Could be crap in the taps or dip tube/popets

If you have one of those carb caps you could half fill a PET bottle with water and then discharge it through the beer line. The flow rate will indicate if your problems lies in the tap/line/disconect assembly. Dave

I thought it may have been air brushed like the panel vans (root utes) of my youth!

Cheers!

Bingo, it is the first option.

Hi, just a couple of photos to explain what I was talking about earlier on. The ABS box from Jaycar (cat. HB6120) was $5.95 so pretty cheap, also used was some hi temp silicone sealer. The element was from Ebay. The 1" BSP ferule is threaded onto the element, this will be welded into the HLT...

The internal power supply (240Vac to 12Vdc or maybe 5Vdc) is the most likely suspect. If you're keen to do a bit of electronics you could replace the PSU with an external one since it will all end up in an enclosure anyway. Dave

For a HLT any 3.6kW WHS element will just about do, there is not scorching issues with just water. I weld a 1" BSP ferrule onto the side and use a screw in element. Before I fit the element I drill and tap some holes in the hex section of the element and use a small abs box and cable gland from...

Maybe a silly question but it was a 240V STC wasn't it. Not a 12V version.

Yes, also the 10A is a 3ph cct.

I was suggesting the SSR could be placed on the neutral side of the isolation switch so that when the element is not selected the SSR will not have 240V on so it may increase it's life slightly and make it a bit safer if you put hands inside the box (SSRs are rather open faced and easily...

Another approach is to replace the std keg opening with a 4" tri-clover fitting. It would allow more room to add thermowells etc and better access for cleaning. Dave