I'd be making a c-spanner out of a piece of flat bar using the above template. I made one out of a piece of stainless to undo my beer taps on the kegerator.
Here's my milk stout recipe, actually its Brew Dog's 'Jet Black Heart' or my translation of the recipe. Still carbonating so can't comment yet on how it turned out, but tasted good at bottling time
Had a crack at this tonight, didn't have number stencils but I know what lines are what. Big W pot lookin' good with weldless spigot and inner mash basket for the little recirculating recipe testing rig.
Hey FB,
How does that temp probe location work for you? I'm deciding whether to knock another hole in my kettle in a better spot. Are you using a PID controller for mash temps?
Thankyou guys for all your detailed responses. After talking with a control guy at work and reading the 'Getting the most out of PID Control' threads I am more and more confident about getting this thing working well! I will try putting a limit of say 80% on the element output so it wont whack...
The lowest I could theoretically go is 3600w and I should be able to boil a full volume with that, but the 4500w element is an ULDW element which should be ok, it's quite long. I could maybe set a maximum element output of say 80% on the pid (it's time proportional control) and see if that helps.
Cheers,
Have you got any photos of the setup? I also have a malleys 50L copper 2400w which I BIAB in.
Here's my control panel, it's got a PID and pt100 probe for the mash but at the moment I just use manual control
Thanks Mark,
Unfortunately it's such a slow moving system and that loop is a bitch to tune. It's set-up + loop tuning that will get me there in the end. I've now got a KK mag drive pump with a good flow rate. The malt pipe I'm planning on having some horizontal slots cut just below the lip of...