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Couple of things you need to remember about yeasts and ciders... 1- the sugar profile is diferent in apple juice compared to beer. Apple juice is all simple sugars. This means that any beer yeasts attenuation figure is essentially meaningless when applied to a cider. Rule of thumb - it will...

Apparently they have changed their position on that... http://www.theonion.com/article/members-of-twisted-sister-now-willing-to-take-it-6374

Really? Still? I stopped listening to MMM a decade ago because their play list was mostly Pearl Jam's better man. The Pogues fairytale of New York is the only acceptable Christmas type song allowed in our house.

Options for sweet cider - http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/83751-sweet-cider-how-to-keep-things-sweet/

Problem solved.

Oh... Sorry... I thought I smelled smoke....

The missus is allergic to sulphites so I never use campden tablets. You could flush with co2 but I have never done it. I tend to add oak after racking which adds tannins which apparently sorta kinda have an antioxidant effect. Just be careful. Don't splash. And don't rack too often. Once when...

Let's not forget him playing Albert in Hustle. Love that show. Might be time for a re watch.

The honey will also ferment right out unless you stop it somehow. Sweet ciders without artificial sweetness or other unfermentable sugars (like lactose... Hence it's common use in ciders) is really quite hard. Particularly if you want to bottle rather than keg.

My standard cider is 80% Pink Lady and 20% granny Smith. 71b yeast. Ferment slow over winter. Dry but with a touch of sweetness. Not sure how you would replicate that with shop juices though..

I like me some 71b. It's been my go to yeast for cider and mead for a good few years now. I'm also a big believer in being patient with mead. Don't try to hurry it. Just let it do its thing. It will reward you.

Local $2 shop. Never looked back.

Yeah... That is a pretty strong brew. My usual recipe is 1kg honey in 4.5l plus half a kilo of fruit. That gives me a nice easy 9-10%ABV. If I'm making a sweet mead I'll shoot for 15% (the 71B yeast I use tops out around 14%). That works out around a kilo and a half. 2 kilos you will be up...

Let it finish fermenting and start to clear. Once it starts to drop clear rack to secondary. Let it bulk age there for 3-6 months then bottle and let age in the bottles. If you want to add fruit, add to the primary one the main fermentation is done. Then leave on the pulp for 7-10 days then...

What you are doing is fine. I've been doing much the same for the last 25 years. Staggered nutrient additions might help speed fermentation but mead is a patient persons sport anyway. Reducing fermentation by a couple of weeks is immaterial when you are adding for a couple of years anyway....

That would be the fluffer's union...

I went into a no so2 phase in the 90s and have never started using it again. Most of what I make is mead but I do some fruit wine as well. I only ever rack once when fermentation is done. I do add oak dominoes to most of my meads. Sanitise bottles well. Give the corks a sanitiser rinse as...

Never used so2. The missus is allergic. It's absence never seemed to cause a problem.

I've tried to make orange wine before. In my experiments I have found that orange zest is a great addition to wine after fermentation. Orange juice when fermented tastes like bad oranges. I'd say a white wine or mead flavoured with orange zest may well be a winner. Trying to ferment orange...

My tom's haven't even started flowering yet. Where are you? FNQ?