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The large surface area is excellent, and will prevent scorching of the wort (opinions differ as to whether or not this actually occurs even with high power density elements, but it's nice to be able to avoid the issue altogether). As mxd says, it may still have difficulty boiling a full brew -...

Looks great, particularly the element - got some details on what it is and what it cost you? Shame about the brass - for the small amount you've used you could've easily gone all-stainless. How are you planning to measure/control the temperature. Plans for a sight glass? The insulation looks...

I dunno if you've used forums before, but reposting a thread because you're not getting replies to it is very bad etiquette. Don't do it - if you wait long enough, someone will answer it if they can.

Fine by me, if I ever need a heart bypass, and you're fully qualified to perform it, I'd be happy to wire your beerfridge, TV, computer and anything else that needs hooking up. In the meantime, you stick to the ELVAD wires and I'll handle the copper.

"A little guidance" is exactly what we're hoping to avoid giving you. "A little guidance" will give you just enough information to think you can have a crack at it, but not enough for you to do it properly. "A little guidance" will get you killed. For you, it'll have to be either a LOT of...

And I say again, the reason you've not figured it out so far is not because the information you seek is not there, but because you lack the ability or experience to understand it. There's nothing wrong with that - I lack the ability and experience to grasp open heart bypass surgery, golf course...

Nice spot, Doug, I missed that one. He's dead right, 4*, an extension with two male ends is EXTRAORDINARILY unsafe. It's a question of when it will kill someone, not if. Don't ever do this. It is for very good reason that outlets are ALWAYS female, and inlets are always male. Whether it's on a...

Most fridge/freezer combos work by having a single compressor driving the freezer and controlled by the freezer's thermostat. There's then a second thermostat which controls airflow between the fridge and the freezer - either cutting a fan in and out, or simply closing a vent. My brew fridge...

Take it to an appliance shop, or a friend who's good with electronics. If you can't work out how to do it after the screeds of information and diagrams posted by myself and others in this thread and others, you've got no business working with a 240V appliance. Sorry, pal, that's just how it is...

yup, they'd be fine. You can mount them anywhere, though best to have them pointed at the wort, and not at the probe

The tighter you control the air temp, the tighter you control the wort temp. There have been numerous arguments on here about whether to give the probe some thermal mass (putting it in a bottle of water, styrofoam, etc), or leaving it in free air. If it's in free air, it will be able to more...

Hey, steady on. This is a Western Suburbs brewing thread, we'll none of that Southern tomfoolery

I live in Parra too, but I'm a Panthers man.

Is this a fully automated brewery, or not? If it's not, why is each particular stage automated or not?

Top stuff, mate, well done! I didn't realise earlier that the "shelf" in question is actualy the controller. It could still be removed and mounted at the top of the enclosure if you could comfortably (and, of course, safely) extend all of the wires going into it. Shouldn't be too difficult, and...

It will fill the drip tray itself with the condensation it produces, but you can put some water in there without upsetting it. You'll probably want to come up with a way to disable the evap circuit, or rather ensure it vents to air instead of the cabinet - humidity is desirable for wine, not for...

:) I was going to point out that a backwards E is usually a 3. You'll probably want to probe the connections of that evap sensor to ensure it's not broken somewhere you can't see it. It might be a break inside the controller, would definitely pay to crack it open and have a poke. It's a bit hard...

Yup, looks fine in terms of wires going to the right places. Cables could be a bit shorter and tidier, maybe some cable ties. It's a bit odd that you've used a screw terminal to split the active, but the neutral loops through the controller first - those terminals are smaller than the screw...

Yes, it wouldn't work. An RTD is much more precise than an NTC thermistor (probably much more precise than is necessary for fridge control), but the controller needs to be designed to handle it. Some controllers can handle different probe types and can calibrate for different component values...

In Australia, devices which are double insulated (ie, there are two layers of insulation between any mains wires or terminals and the user) do not need to be earthed. Anything with a metal chassis will usually be earthed. Since you're putting this in a plastic box, it shouldn't be a problem that...