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If you can, get an electrical sub board with plenty of room in it installed. That way if you pop a breaker, you can fix it right there without having to go out in the pouring rain (because you know that's when it will happen). Also, when you want to add another power circuit, it can be easily...

I also have one if you are interested.

If you are going to regularly change line lengths, set up your taps with a post on the back side. Then make up the different line lengths to suit with a QD on each end. When you need to swap one out, it's quick and easy to do.

As shelf items, or will that depend on demand? As in some products may be special order.

Never heard of anything like that when I had 22kg cylinders. Not saying it's not true, just that I never encountered it.

You ALWAYS want at least one keg spare, so you can fill it without having to wait until a keg is completely emptied. How many spare kegs you want sitting around is a matter of personal circumstances ($$$, storage space, drinking speed, etc).

Plus it was really hard to get your hands on certain types of beer. Been getting easier, but it's still a lot of effort for some beers. Or flat out impossible.

Too late now, but when I had problems (not with a KL bottle -- well before their time), the square hole in the plastic handle had rounded out. I removed the handle and used a shifter until the bottle was empty, then replaced the handle and swapped the bottle over. Never had a problem since...

In fairness, I don't think it's explicitly mentioned in this thread. But there's no other reason for choosing that shape of VV, that looks like an overgrown p*** bottle.

Well, that Bunnings jobby is out. Not food grade, and you can't access lower boxes in a stack without lifting the top ones off. Not saying looking local isn't a good idea, but that one doesn't meet spec.

I always"dry hopped" with fresh grated ginger in the ferment. Never had a problem, except the first time when I didn't think to put the grated ginger in a hop sock and it kept plugging the fermenter tap during bottling :doofus:.

I don't think you will have a problem with the balance. Just as ridiculously high IBU become imperceptible to the human palate, it doesn't take very many IBU to take the sickly edge off a malty beer.

Tasteless would be an improvement on Tooheys New.

I'd prefer the adjustable design, so I only need to have one I can adjust to suit my needs at the time, rather than 2-3 large rigid frames that I have to store when not in use (which would be most of the time for whatever configuration(s) I only use occasionally. Another thought is that if it...

Would that shelf be adjustable? I.e. would I be able to move it up and down to suit what I wanted to store in the fridge at any given time? Or would I have to buy extra shelves depending whether I currently had tall bottles (wine or longnecks) in the fridge?

Nothing. Largely because I've never thrown anything out unless it was totally dead. Probably explains why I've got so much clutter in the brewery.

Is that water report for your house/brewery? Or the default one for your area? A problem I've come across several times: how old are your water pipes? Old gal pipes can lead to a strong metallic flavour in home brew.

A 30L unit would certainly be capable of making a 12% beer. Just not very much of it in a single batch.

Depending how close to the edge the coil risers are, you could try getting another lid (just a cheapy) and cutting a section out.

I use the freezer section on my converted fridge (picked it up off the side of the road, turned it into a kegerator).