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Depends on the layout of the fridge or freezer. There's often a nice hole to let in the wires for the thermostat, and the interior light. Removing all that (and the light, door switch, and thermostat if possible) may leave you with a nice conduit in the back of the fridge to feed in cables...

Lots of things are possible, but it's going to be more difficult to use the freezer as a freezer and use the fridge for fermenting. Not impossible, but you will have to dig deeper into how the fridge temperature is maintained so that you don't effect the operation of the freezer. And of...

If you pressure ferment (even only nominally), the CO2 would be generated by the yeast. And if you then counter-flow to a keg using gravity, then no, you won't waste any gas. Only if you hook up a gas cylinder to serve/transfer from the larger vessel will you use additional gas, due to the...

Not very well, though.

Can I have one in green, with polished brass knobs on :drinkingbeer:?

I have a feeling heat belts are not recommended with PET fermenters, but I may be misremembering that :confused:.

Adapter hose. Put a suitable male air compressor fitting (Nitto, Jamec, Ryco, whatever your existing compressor setup uses) --> hose barb piece on one end of a length of hose, and a corny keg gas fitting on the other end.

Is the original weight of 22KG full with or without the reg?

Maybe the mass of the extra beer dampens the harmonic that causes the gurgling? hat's all I can think if that would cause a relationship between the contents of the fridge and the noise of the fridge.

For purging all the air to work properly, yes. If you mean for cleaning to work, no. The idea is that if the keg is absolutely full of sanitiser, then there cannot be any air in the keg. Then you purge the keg with CO2, displacing the sanitiser but without admitting any air.

Do these power supplies have a replaceable fuse that could have blown?

Some taps don't work with some fermenters. Not sure which one is different, but identical looking components will fit no problem. Just buy another couple of taps from different sources (they're cheap enough), find one that works and keep the rest in the spares box.

It did, for quite a while, because there were plenty of good beers in between the shockers. I was chasing sanitation/cleaning issues, when it was a chemical contamination problem. It's not so much changes you have made to your setup that I'm talking about, it variations in your brew day...

Another thought to consider: is there any other variation to your brewing routine? ANYTHING! At one point I had (seemingly random) plasticky band-aid flavours, but only in some batches of beer. Drove me nuts for ages. Eventually tracked it down to a non-food grade hose that was sometimes...

Keg it, carb it, try it. All that time lagering could have turned it into the best beer you've ever made. If it's truly undrinkable, you can still pour it down the sink and you've only lost a bit of CO2 and the time it took you to keg it. There's no point condemning a beer based on what it...

In a flat bottomed fermenter, I'd say just dump it all in and stir. Your problem is going to be getting any sort of agitation/mixing going in the cone section. I'd just keep doing what you're doing. It's only one extra pot to wash, and large pots are fairly easy to clean, especially as you...

My apologies for my misunderstanding your request :doofus: . I'd better go and have a home brew to improve my reading comprehension skills :drinkingbeer:!

2" TC is as big as they can put on there without compromising the ability of the lid to withstand pressure.

Yes and no. It's high by Australian standards, but in other countries 220/240 30A plugs are normal. Not for every outlet, but a lot of houses in the USA have them as dryer outlet. A friend of mine (living in the USA) has a 50A single phase outlet in his basement.

Don't forget the jump lead to run the kettle from the car if the power goes out!