Search results

I got a pulley that loops over a few times from bunnings for pretty cheap, lot easier than a single pulley.

Normally NC into cube overnight then the next day put into fridge to get to pitching temp, transfer into fermenter and pitch yeast. (normally leave a bit of break behind in cube) Have left it for a week a couple of times. Today I tried something different and stuck the cube in an esky with a...

Went with equal ammounts for later additions, will go with a just willamette in a porter later to get a better feel for it I think. Thanks for the advice

Thanks for the reassurance. I think I will do a porter with the willamette as the only hop next as I think this may suite it a bit better.

OK I have no idea what I really want to brew.. just some nice beer.. but have a pound of willamette I want to try out and I also bought 500g of wheat and caramalt to give them a shot. Have heard some people say willamette tastes minty which worries me a bit as I dont know if I would like that...

So do coopers/little creatures have stacks of bottles under controlled conditions carbonating someplace? (I would expect this would have to be the case or some people may be getting flat beer?) or do they let the secondary fermentation happen during transport etc?

Off the back of gold leafed strippers?

I would use at least 3m of 5mm line. At least 4m of 6mm line. Edit: Coil up excess line and cable tie it, then it isnt too bad (or buy flow control taps) The problem with backing pressure off a lot is you get the bubbles forming in your line, though this may not be a problem with really short...

It will be totally stuffed, drop it off to me and I will get rid of it for you while you go fishing.

I would up the line length from 1.5 to 3 meters or 4 meters Edit: Sometimes if beer is a bit overcarbed (or serving pressure is very low) bubbles form in the line (co2 coming out of solution) which make the first pour exceedingly foamy but second pour should be ok.

1 hour doesn't seem excessively long. Is the water you add into the fermenter to cool normal tap water (I never had a problem with tap water when doing k&k but I guess something could be in the faucet)? I've never tried it but have heard people boil water then freeze it and add this to...

How long does it normally take to cool down? Maybe the bacteria is getting a head start on the yeast?

Haven't had the problem with wort shooting out either, I just grap a sample then chuck the pipette bulb side up in a glass (to stop any drips) and put it into the freezer for a short time. Works well for me. I use some fairly thin ones that came with the cheapo ebay refractometer.

Maybe lacto infection?

Would wort being cooled inside a pipette evaporate? I'd assume it has no place to go and should be ok?

OK so botulism is off the table.. how about cyanide poisoning in cherry beer?

Thanks for that, is hormone growth powder something you find in the big green shed or is it a specialist garden type thing?

Advantage of electric: Can set timer to preheat strike water while you sleep (dont think I would trust doing this with gas). Dont have to worry about it running out. Dont need to haul out a gas bottle?

I'm confused about this argument, why would CB be more likely in no chill than chilling? Wouldnt the heat make it harder for it to survive? Or is it the time before pitching yeast that is more risky?

33L water 4.5kg pils 0.5kg chocolate 0.25kg crystal (I use joe white crystal which I think is fairly light so would cut dark back) 0.25kg munich Goldings / Fuggles 60min for about 30 ibu nottingham yeast I'm not expert but I made this recipe with slightly different hops and it turned out great.