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I think recipes are normally for 23 litres. I wouldn't use the POR late. POR is a bittering hop. You can use any hop for bittering. You could always try dry hopping with it though.

What was the date on the smack pack? If the date is getting on a bit, it is best to make a starter. You can always smack the pack a couple of days before brewing. That way you will know it is good when you pitch it to your wort.

UPDATE At the moment I have about 800-1000 grams of Victoria rhizome that I dug up yesterday. That is the absolute last of the rhizomes I will have for the season, so if you want some get in quick.

To what science are you referring? I've not seen you make one single reference to any scientific article or the like regarding pitch rate and its implications. The only thing I've seen you quote is hearsay.

********. My point is it doesn't matter how you pitch, direct or re-hydrated, it doesn't make a difference to your beer. I have been proven 100% correct. It's the fanatical idiots who have been proven wrong who are making a fuss, not me.

I really don't care. :D

If you believe that half the yeast dies when pitching into a fermenter rather than hydrating in water, then the link proves exactly what I said.

The claims about attenuation and so on I don't accept. And by that I am referring to the claims people make about needing to chuck in a large amount of yeast for the wort to fully attenuate. Quantity of yeast is insignificant when considered alongside factors such as nutritional content of the...

That confirms what I have thought all along, homebrewers on here professing to know everything and belittling anyone who disagrees with them, are basically full of it. Which is to say, you don't know unless you do the tests.

PM sent.

Have you tried jiggling the hop spider? I read one brewers report in the US that said they jiggled their dry hops and only left them in for 4-6 hours. I don't want my hop spider to be a waste of money. :eek:

The recipe shows American Ale yeast, which would be US05 or equivalent liquid strain. As far as I am aware M42 is just Notto repackaged. M44 is probably Bry-97.

Pellets will give you more bang for your buck than whole cones. Put your hops through a blender. You can even sift the blendered hop cones down to half their volume and retain nearly all the lupullin in the process. I normally free ball my hops, although I did buy a big hop spider from...

Here is a calculator for adding priming sugar. I had it bookmarked on my computer: https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

I found an online calculator that says you multiply the number by 131.25. So 1.050-1.020 = 0.03 x 131.25 = 3.9375.

According to the instructions that used to come with the Coopers kits, the number to divide by is 7.46. So the equation is (O.G.-F.G.)/7.46 There is actually a noticeable difference between LDME and dextrose. I think LDME will give a similar gravity to sugar, whereas dextrose will give a lower...

As long as it has the alcohol to match the body it will probably be ok. If it is just a mashing miss-hap of some sort and it doesn't attenuate and it is thick and syrupy, I'd be surprised if it would appeal to anyone apart from some Brett organisms and the like. I get where you're coming from...

Have you tried brown malt? I've read that brown malt and roast barley help with body. The one time I used rolled oats they didn't seem to do anything for body. I also read somewhere yesterday that flaked barley does nothing for body either. I'm hoping for haze. Discovered that I used the can of...

Doesn't look too bad. I'm thinking of doing a quick stout to use up a can of goop I bought a year ago. So it is going to be a partial. The thing that is stopping me at the moment is that I don't have any flaked barley. You don't have any flaked barley in your recipe either. Some notes on Stouts...

Mark covered it pretty well. I was just going to say, get some dextrose from BigW.