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@duncbrewer here are the pictures - I included one with a red circle that shows the proximity of the temp probe to my trub clogger

These things happen but I am determined to make it work ! Part of the initial thought for using the false bottom was how it would stay it in place, I install it right at the start before filling with water, there is enough space to slide it in between the wort out and whirlpool fittings. I will...

I forgot to mention - my expected OG was 1.071 based on recipe. I got just under 22L of 1.062 into the fermenter so everything is fine - It will be beer!

I wish I could say that the trub stopper worked the way that I wanted it to but I can’t … It did work, but too well. I probably shouldn’t have tried to brew a neipa full of oats and wheat on the test run but I figured it would show up any short comings pretty well, and did it what!! :eek: Mash...

It has definitely been good for slowing things down a little sparge wise

Yes there are 2 different bottoms for the 40L .. the one with the folded ribs is the reinforced one .. probably unnecessary with recirc and grain bed filtering but I had the mesh lying around and when I pull apart to clean it’s always caught a bunch of crud so I continue to use it

One other thing I have done to help keep bits out of the wort .. I bought the reinforced malt pipe bottom having seen other tell tales of bottoms dropping out, so sandwiched some fine SS mesh in between the the two malt pipe bottoms for some extra filtering

Ok @FarsideOfCrazy reporting back on my (possibly dubious and not yet tested) trub solution as I am awaiting another whirlpool attachment. I have butchered the false bottom to make this.. I abandoned the false bottle a while ago as I was experiencing really interesting boil activity. The false...

The picture doesn’t show it very well but half is hard to the bottom on the ring around heating plate and the other half of the opening has about 4mm gap over the top of the second ring out from centre. This is on a 40L can, the bottom of the 70 may be different. It was just how it worked out...

Hey Crazy, I have the lauter helix and false bottom and both have advantages and disadvantages. I have however ditched both and have a right angle faced toward the bottom. Post whirlpool/cooling I will let settle out before pumping to fermenter where I use a sieve to catch any random hop matter...

It should be fine - I spoke with Davide from smartPID about it and we accepted that it may have just been a bad one - he said it’s happened only twice since he has been selling the kits. I realised I had a problem when it took 75 mins to get from 22c to 50c @ 100% power

Don’t forget to back off the boil power a bit or you will get a bit of scorchio like I did !

Good call on the holes Grok thanks ! - also when I did some research on the fotek SSRs it seems they are prone to failures so I just accepted that it was possible I got a bad one and replaced it with the one I did figuring that my 2500w element at full power is just a little over 10amps and well...

Here is the SSR I used to replace the melted one, it’s rated to 40amps up to 280v RS PRO 40 A rms SPNO Solid State Relay, Zero Cross, Panel Mount, TRIAC, 280 V ac Maximum Load | RS Components

Thanks Grok, with the lid off or on that compartment there would be little to no airflow either way as that is the base that it sits on, was going to check in on the ssr after each brew for the first few to make sure it was coping as it will be difficult to mount any kind of fan without it just...

It doesn’t control flow only on off for the pump, I just use the ball valve that came with the unit to set flow .. you can control a HLT as well as a second pump if you want to start going down that rabbit hole but that also means wires out to separate units etc etc

This https://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/nano-quick-seal-whirlpool-set-304ss-3-piece-ball-valve-set-whirlpool-elbow and this https://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/nano-quick-seal-dump-valve-304ss-3-piece-ball-valve-set

Yes cheeky ones .. one was in what they called a “whirlpool kit”

The one I used would be fine for the 70l, I use the internal pump for recirc only and it’s also controlled via the PID program. I use the larger external pump for whirlpool and cooling - I have a third pump that runs the cooling water in bucket that I add 14kg blocks of ice to .. I can get down...

I have only had one brew with the PID since the SSR had a meltdown - replaced with a much better one and have only had a test run so far with water - however the temps have been more accurate and stable just in the tests. Yes I fitted the Smart PID purchased from Italy myself with no problems...