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100L at home (4 batches back to back) with Butters as my assistant keg drainer. 12hours brew day iirc. 1200L commercially (assisting the Head Brewer at Barossa Valley Brewery).

Quintrex - confirming my beers arrived late last week. Thanks again for 'hosting' and arranging the swapping of these beers. Looking forward to these. Noting I still have one bottle of most of the 2011 swap beer aging in the shed too still...!

Not sure how oxidation would occur if you have primed your beer and then naturally carbed up in the bottle (as opposed to cpbf'ing which certainly can lead to some oxidisation. The yeast in the bottle will use up any available oxygen when chewing through the priming sugar.

Just paid courier, and sent it to your email addy mate! Thanks again!!!

My reg never gets above 80kPa nowadays mate!

Posted link on Brew Adelaide to Don, you should get a few interested nibbles! (70 years young = 30 years brewing left surely! :) )

I run Celli's but am slack in cleaning them so they do get sticky from time to time. Love the flow control too as per Ross's post, but I reckon I would now be leaning toward perlicks if I were to start my setup again. I rarely (if ever) use the creamer on the celli's.

When I meant open the MT outlet slowly, I meant slowly open it from fully shut to 'say' 50% open - but do this process gradually over say a 10 second period. (Hard to explain typing!) Also give your Mash a good stir and then let it settle for a few minutes or so, prior to draining the mash tun.

I use a micromatic - I have only had one issue (internal leak), but this was surely due to me dropping it once accidentally. Otherwise I can't fault the unit.

Get two, always handy to have just incase.

You could steep some extra darker highly kilned malts, strain off the liquid, boil it then add to your wort. Have done similar with a Baltic porter a few years ago with success.

I would be leaving it a number of months - it could take 6months or more to get right down to 1002 - 1006 ish (final gravity will be dependant on a number of factors though!)

Re fresh yeast at bottling - I would use some ale yeast slurry along with your priming sugar to ensure proper bottle carbonation.

I use a keggle also - I tend to get stuck sparges when I: 1. Have a large grain bill - extra height tends to compact grain bed too much 2. Open the tap too quickly - resulting in compacting grain bed 3. Large amounts of wheat without using rice gulls. Item 2 above would be my guess, I have to...

I am glad you posted for our amusement mate, you must have been tearing your hair out by the end!

re OP - yeah its certainly different from the old AHB. Noting also we humans don't cope well with change! I'm still learning on this layout too,

If they smell cheesy they may be past their best - you could age them further though, add use them in a lambic though. open up the packets, give them a good smell and go from there.

Bum is correct, Mods can see the warning points under your username - but everyone has this line, its just that most have '0 warning points'. Warning points were carried over from the old AHB layout - so its from a previous misdemenour. Any warning given my a Mod would have been accompanied...

I would anticipate Dane will be *maybe* moving some of the bigger topics (such as STC threads) to these new areas given some time.

Yes, as long as your sanitation techniques are sound your beer will be stable at 1 degree for 6weeks.