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Honestly I find Hop Hog to be very hit and miss. Sometimes it makes me almost cry with an explosion of hopgasmic flavour/aroma, other times it basically tastes like nothing.

Do you guys reckon we will ever see beer being served like wine? I mean, you go to any restauarant etc no matter how much of a ****** dive and they'll still have like 50 bottles of wine to choose from, all different varieties etc. Yet for beer you get nothing but piss lager. I mean for ****'s...

"He is now resting. He is now at peace. Our nation has lost its greatest son. Our people have lost a father. Although we knew that this day would come, nothing can diminish our sense of a profound and enduring loss." President Jacob Zuma

At 60ºC it would be zero. Isomerisation effectively stops at around 80 - 85ºC.

... ..... ....... :huh: For real though, oats need to be mashed, you can't just chuck them in. If you want to improve head retention consider steeping some Carapils and using all malt instead of brown sugar.

Does anybody know why US base ale malt is typically around 3 EBC while Australian base ale malt is 5+ EBC? I mean there must be a difference in the flavour etc when it's almost twice as dark? We get pilsner malts which are as light as US ale malts, but pilsner malt is different, right?

Something else I figured out is that you need to calibrate the refractometer as close to 20ºC as possible. If you calibrate it at 30ºC (for example, you live in Darwin), its accuracy is approximately dick. I'm sure I knew that once upon a time but it skipped my memory this time.

Alright, I let the sample cool down a bit more, let the crap drop out of it, measured again. Exactly 13.2 which correlates 100% with the hydrometer. :icon_cheers: Had a brief panic attack there thinking the refractometer was DOA. One of my family members (they're all innocent, of course)...

Just finishing up a brew, hydrometer is reading 1.054 OG (temperature corrected), my new ATC refractometer is reading 15 brix (1.062)? I made sure to calibrate it with distilled water before using it (reading 0 brix exactly). It doesn't have a SG scale so I can't compare them. Is this just a...

... Sounds delicious ... :huh:

I'd definitely be interested assuming it's still good, I'm almost out of base malt. Sealed in an old fridge you reckon? No bugs or anything get in there?

I imagine that siphoning samples from a carboy would introduce a lot of oxygen to it? Plus wouldn't it waste a lot of beer?

Yes, of course, but a simple Starsan spray does the job just fine. Takes <10 seconds.

Solution! Less than $20 and totally worth it.

I highly recommend the Thermapen if you want to spend the money. I bought one from the exact eBay store you linked above OP, refurbished, arrived in a couple of weeks and works perfectly. Cost something like $60 all told including postage, which I don't think is unreasonably expensive given what...

You will only get bitterness from the hops while the wort is >85ºC. If you want to add more flame out hops without adding bitterness, wait until the wort is below that temperature, chuck them in, and let them sit for a little while. Alternatively, brew 100+ IBU double IPA's! You can only get so...

12 minutes to every addition (assuming ~10% utilisation). When you are doing a whirlpool/hop stand you are keeping your wort at a high temperature and it will continue to effect every hop addition, not just the ones you throw in at 0 minutes. Yes, this makes a pretty huge difference to the...

Seems to fall in line with the generally accepted estimate of ~10% utilisation (~12 minutes boil) for whirlpool/hop stand on the home brew scale. Would love to see more results in the future!

There have been two separate companies developing something like this in the past few years and both of them gave up. Honestly I'm not sure why it's so difficult, but I guess it must be.

Is there a list somewhere of recommended mash pH levels by beer style? There is a lot of discussion on ideal pH levels varying between styles but I can't seem to find recommended pH levels anywhere.