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of course it will and how are you going to manage to not activate your beta amylase? I think you'll find that its very active indeed at 73

umm - just put the aquarium heater into the fermenter and let it heat the beer directly. Then you have not only the simplest and most efficient way to get xW of heat into your fermenter, but you can use the built in thermostat to control your temp for you. I can hear the moaning and bleating...

I suspect just oxidation in the bottles - you probably are quite careful to purge oxygen from your keg, and you probably believe that "the yeast takes care of any oxygen in a bottle" - it doesn't. Try reducing your headspace and filling the bottles more carefully. If its not that - then you...

Really?? - i dont think i've ever fermented a lager where primary fermentation lasted less than 14 days....... perhaps you are simply being a bit impatient?

if you really cant just call them beer and drink them.... then i think "adryargument" had a good idea. chill them super cold, twist off the lid and into each of 5 of the bottles place about 0.5g of a different hop, flowers or pellets as you have them. re-cap, let them sit at winter room temp...

nice - expect an order from me soon

interesting - if so, then in Victoria you could make the argument that a growler is not in fact repackaging, but the sale of an "open" container of alcohol and therefore not something that requires extra excise. If you are willing to let the punter wander off with the actual container (or if...

it might be easier to do what wolfy suggested and just compromise the temps a little on the basis that a} Your beer could probably stand being a few degrees warmer than the stock standard Aussie "freezing bloody cold" b} Cheese still works just fine a little colder than the ideal temps, it just...

I've had the filler for quite a while, along with other CP fillers - I much prefer the concept and results of CP filling to either bottle conditioning (dont like at all) or filling from a tap - but it is undeniably a pita. So the object here is to make it as easy as possible. Thanks for the...

It would certainly do the job, but you dont need it. If you are mash brewing - then all you need to do is a normal cereal mash for yor rice, or use a flaked/puffed rice product. Unless you are planning on using 50% rice or something (which would be silly) you wont need more enzymes than you'll...

Ahh - yours was the set-up I'd seen and wanted to emulate. Thanks FJ - so its just half the adapter onto the font, half the adapter onto the back of the tap, and then one plugs into the other? Ok, I can do that. Thanks. Oh I slow fill now for growlers etc - but when i do bottle, I am bloody...

All sorts of things can add haze - remember, PVPP (polyclar) ONLY works on chill haze, so if things add haze after the kettle, PVPP added at any point, before or after the kettle, wouldn't effect them anyway. Could maybe add extra PVPP to the kettle i guesss, see below. I know Spillsmostofit...

i use brewbrite and like it a lot - but I dont think its a panacea. Because it combines your regular kettle finings (carageenean) with PVPP - you cant tailor the dose of one without also adjusting the other. I find that in my brewery, to get the haze stabilisation effect I want from the...

well, I'm not the arbiter of the rules - but to my mind its pretty easy. Single meaning, well.... single. So just the one yeast - you want brett, you have to use ALL brett, you want lacto then nothin but lacto is your lot. A commercial blend is still a blend of more than one yeast, its just...

I guess I'm a little dense, but i dont understand what the hell all these things are and how they go together. I was wondering if someone could help explain it to me by way of a practical example (ie, tell me how to do the thing I want to do) Here's what i want. I have one of these That i...

i reckon florian might have it - i find quite a few varieties of hop hit my palate in a manner which I think of as "soapy" - i especially find it in beers which are dry hopped in any sort of aggressive way, not always, but often enough. It probably will improve a chunk with a little age. But...

not necessarily, just that keeping the end of the hose under the liquid level will both ensure the whole tube stays properly full of liquid and that you get the full effect of the height difference between the liquid level in your kettle and the liquid level in your fermenter. That will help...

i disgree that its necessarily good advice - its passably good advice in some specific circumstances. Crash chilling doesn't cause diacetyl, crash chilling when your diacetyl levels are still too high, leaves the diacetyl there, thats all. Taste the beer - if it tastes of diacetyl, then dont...

ultrasonics, lasers, gamma rays to look through cans, cameras and computers.... all get used on "big" brewery bottling lines. but most micros would probably be making do with eyeballs. Fill with a diptube to get it right, eyeballs to make sure the filler got it right.

two things First - you only need the outlet of the chiller slightly above the inlet, just so that the air is purged out as the chiller fills - as wolfy said, the chiller is much less efficient if it has air pockets in it. But, ideally the outlet should indeed be above the inlet. I sit mine...