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Assuming a continuous sparge - depends on how deep your mash bed is likely to be - if the dome is high, the bed will be significantly thinner at the top. Thinner bed, less resistance to flow through that bit, path of least resistance is where the liquid will flow. Result - over sparging in the...

Wort temp is the important one - your mash will always lag behind your heat-ex temp a little, although if you have an efficiency flow set-up, not for long and not by much. But that's only for Ramps - if you are doing a single infusion at X degrees, then there is (or should be) no difference...

Similar to this one I made - the difference being that they had the brainwave of turning the bucket upside down. Handy, because teh problem I had was that in order for the bucket to seal to the funnel, I had to cut it down to a wider point and that reduced the volume too much. I just had a quick...

Probably fair to say. Also, with a pre-made FB its reasonably easy to extend the pick-up right to the bottom of the tun. You can do it with other shaped tuns too - but as you say, 1cm of deadspace is a higher volume with a greater surface area no matter how you juggle it. Remember though -...

Thanks dude, but i dont really need the science explained to me - I understand it already. I'm looking for actual literature which supports the general conclusions that people draw from the science. I know its there, just not so much in the books and journals I have access to (or not that I've...

actually, have a look in Dan's CUB is no long the BUl brewer of Carlsberg and I am not aware that anyone else has started brewing it yet. So there is a decent chance that bottleshops will have the imported stuff in stock as a gap filler. That seems to be the case with Stella atm anyway.

It all depends on how you decide you want to sparge. If you batch sparge: - You will need a bigger tun. How much bigger will once again depend on the sparge regime you choose, the simpler the regime (less individual sparges) the bigger the tun required. The maximum size needed would be for...

oh, for some reason i thought i had read to the end of the thread and I hadn't - excuse my slightly out of whack post. Thanks for linking to the article - interestingly, its been posted before when this argument has come up previously and its also more or less the only thing that ever is linked...

actually - I've read most of the major brewing texts, and I can find no such thing at all let alone it being ubiquitous and/or something stressed as of highest importance. I can find a lot of statements of opinion that its true, but not any actual information to back it up. I have in fact been...

Not all that quickly, and not really sgnificantly more quickly than they would in any normal fermentation - the yeast aren't super respirators (ok, no respiration is actually happening, I know that) just because its a starter, and it will take a while before they ferment the sugars out...

no no - growth wont be done by then... maybe its a bit past the point where its useful to give it more oxygen once its got karusen going, I'd probably not bother. mind you, I've never gotten, nor am i sure I'd want that much activity so soon.... that'd kind of freak me out. There's supposed to...

hand on heart, tear in my eye - one of the few "famous" people who actually did something that makes me tremble in awe. Vale indeed.

Dont worry about "hours" - you can see. If the starter has a **** ton of bubbles rising through it and foam on top, its fermenting its little rectum off and is at full activity. Leave it on the stir plate until its doing that, then pitch it. That'll take in my experience, more than six hours...

Thing is - if you have a mash tun, you then lose more liquid to both deadspace in the MT and also to the wetter spent grain. As a matter of interest.... it basically evens out. The amount extra you lose in the kettle in BIAB, is about the same as the amount extra you lose in the MT in a 3V...

i dont seem to have the trouble adjusting the height you guys do - mine hold its height nicely without the oring and i just slip it up and down as required. Even with the oring - i only use it under the adjuster, so you can pull it up via the hose (no restriction going up) and push it down with...

no, its not the same. Search out one of the essays, there are a few on the same topic so it shouldn't be hard to find. But the crux is that for BIAB, mash outs are for different reasons to mashouts in normal mashtun/falsebottom brewing. INTEGRAL to what you achieve by taking a BIAB to M/O temps...

Its not necessary to heat it at all, no matter whether you use nitrites or dont smoke it at all. But "Bacon" as its usually understood by aussies, is a cooked product, traditionally it would be cooked by hot smoking it. When you cook it at home, you are really twice cooking it. But - if you...

throw the damn calculator for strike temp away - or at least put it in the drawer for a while. heat your water to 2c above oyur desired grain temperature... and dont rush it so damn much. heat it for a while, stir it up, stick the thermometer in, see where the temp is. STIR is the important...

optimal, range, quickly - all very important words from the quote you provide. experiment away, thats always a good thing - just be aware that the words you used to describe your experiment, about "not activating beta amylase" suggest some underlying assumptions that aren't what's going to...

so do i, handily, each fermenter has a heater inside, and so they can be set at different temperatures... which you cant do if you are simply heating the fridge. I am using pretty cheap (aqua one) i believe units - the thermostats aren't particularly "accurate" in as much as setting one for 18...