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The beer isn't really hoppy - it has no additions, actual hop or otherwise designed to give it hop aroma. What I guess it is - is that since you've been homebrewing, you've started taking a LOT more notice of how your beer actually tastes, than you were the last time you were knocking over a VB...

Adding hops before the wort comes to the boil can help prevent boilovers. The hops release oil which helps break up the surface tension and they also provide nucleation points that help the kettle come to a smooth even boil. Hop oils are the basis of a number of commercial anti foam products...

Aluminium does so give you alzheimers.... It collects under the skin of your head forming a kind of internal tinfoil hat. This tinfoil hat blocks out the signals from the alien satelites - and as everyone knows (well, everyone who hasn't been eating food cooked in aluminium pots) your memories...

I wasn't talking about that bit Batz - sorry. Just the general stuff about what hot break is and isn't, when it happens etc.

Sooooo much misinformation and/or slightly off kilter information. Warning - Clarification for its own sake! Not for people who get narky about over complicating things or who lose concentration if a post is longer than two paragraphs. Do yourself a favour and skip to the next post. Hot break...

yep, their own strain/s - my understanding is that for their pale ale its actually a mix of two different strains. There is also a distinct possibility that CUB might well be unhappy about the notion of employees handing out samples of their proprietary yeasts.... i mean they send truckloads of...

I find this quite an interesting idea - more interesting given the fact that it is being floated by someone with extensive experience using silicon in a non trivial way. Concerns for me would be 1 - OK silicon is strong. Is it going to stay that way after it gets heated to 100 for a couple of...

yeah - why not. some of it at least. If you have some hops in there, they'll build up on the mesh, a depth filter will develop and it will eventually run clear.... you might need to re-circ a bit back into the kettle. How much will it clog? How fast will it flow?? I suspect lots and slowly and...

I always brew to very specific targets - the targets in my recipe. And because I take the care to engage in a little "******* about" - I always hit them. I see a very large distinction between "just making beer" and "making the beer you intended to make" - i'm completely uninterested in the...

True Wes - but lets face it - most of the time people (or at least new brewers) aren't having massive conversion issues - its usually just something basic in their routine that they didn't realise was incorrect. Reasonable up to very high L:G, sensible mash temp, couple of stirs, 60-90 min...

Sometimes its wise to boil for 90miins - for the reasons stated above and not really many more. Probably more important if you are a no-chiller too. So occasionally you will boil for 90mins and the rest of the time could happily boil for 60mins. Ask yourself - as a newer brewer - Will you be...

My 70L aluminium boil kettle cost me just barley over $100 on sale and I expect to still be using it in 20years time. What exactly is it that you plan to do with your boil kettle that makes you think you will wear it out if you dont get stainless? To get a boil that works around the "normal"...

i brought some chincona bark powder back from the US last time i was there. Purchased in a retail hippy herbs and crap shop in Seattle. Made sure it was packed into a clear plastic bag, sealed by a sticker with the shop's name and address etc, kept the receipt. Made sure i knew what it was (ie...

Ok let me paraphrase your sparge process and see if i have it right - (btw - If i were to describe my process to someone this is the sort of format and level of detail I'd think it needed.) Yourprocess as Imunderstand it in blue, my comments in orange After mashing for 1 hr at ??C at an L:G...

Cold break sinks very very slowly - even if you have used kettle finings and have gone to the trouble of working out the correct amount. If you immersion chill, it still wont have settled in any apreciable way in the amount of time its practical to let it rest. People who immersion chill and...

full sparge/lauter routine too please (as well as your mash routine too) run off before adding sparge? Do you stir? When? How Long? One addition of sparge water? Two? Three? those sorts of things. Your exact and whole process, every little thing you do from crushing the grain to starting your...

Cheap timers work fine - but for running high current like a HLT pulls, if you dont have whole of house safety switches, I'd also buy a stand alone RCD while your at Bunnings and stick it in the mix before the timer. One thing if your cheap timer/powerboard/self done wiring/crappy chinese...

:icon_offtopic: Or nearly so anyway. At least it contributes very little to the original question. Dr K Snipped from IBD material on gas transfer into beer - you might note that the rate of transfer of gas into liquid depends on an equation that has the equilibrium concentration on its top...

the K types aren't all that wonderful, but they'll do the job. Or they have for me for a number of years anyway. Rusty - well, you shouldn't have got it wet. Those probes aren't waterproof and dont even really look like they're going to be. Me - I wrenched the actual thermocouple out of the...

When we were talking about this, I didn't quite twig that you were draining your lauter tun dry. I'm not sure about it leading to tannic flavours - i hadn't heard that one before - usually the "dont drain the tun dry" argument is more about HSA than about anything else, and lets face it, the...