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No brainer, tap. Even the normal stainless ball valves can be easily dismantled and cleaned if you're worried. Add a lauter helix too and it will help filter out the solids like hops and proteins.

Sounds like its close to done. You mentioned getting 1016 using nottingham. That's quite high for such a highly attenuating strain. How are you measuring your mash temps? Maybe they are higher than anticipated?

You don't need to do starters if you are harvesting enough yeast. They can be a good idea though if your unsure of the volume you have or want to ensure they are active after they have been in the fridge for a while. I can usually end up with a good 100ml of compressed white yeast on the bottom...

I know I shouldn't worry yet, but its hard not too. I'm mainly concerned because I have brewed a series of batches all with the same yeast and this one is noticeably different. I'll keep venting it periodically to help purge as much DMS as possible.

I have done heaps of reading on DMS and have a reasonable understanding of the sources. I have never noticed it in any of my brews before now and the smell was very strong of creamed corn. I have done 5 batches now in the kegmenter and the smell during fermentation has always been very good. I...

So I just got home and the pressure was a bit high so I adjusted the PRV to vent the fermenter and get the pressure back down where I want it. When I did this there was a very strong smell of DMS which I haven't noticed before. Will I end up with DMS flavour in the finished beer or will it be ok?

Another option might be to cut a section of the stock pipe out and replace it with some silicone hose that it's flexible.

Its the pipe from the pump that sucks. sick of taking it off and on to get the lid off and on. I think I will just get a male camlock with a barb on it and fit a length of silicone hose and use that instead. WIll just need to make sure the silicone hose will fit in the lid hole.

Thats the traditional view but in my opinion its bollocks. Its an over simplification when hops chemistry is extremely complex and largely still mysterious. Many people refer to very late kettle additions as 'aroma additions' because they do impart a lot of aroma, especially for styles that are...

If your kegging, keg it when it tastes good. Last few batches I have pressure fermented in a 50L kegmenter. They where transferred to the serving keg at 5-7 days. Any dry hops were added at the beginning which helps turn the beer around a bit faster too. If bottling you could do the same as...

you wouldn't want to have to move that once you'd filled it.

Found the pics of mine. Pretty sure this was a last minute test fit before heading off to Cliffs Head for a camping trip in late 2017.

10A sockets and 15A sockets internals are usually identical apart from the size of the earth slot pin. At least all the ones I have seen are. 10A sockets are overengineered enough that manufacturers do not need to design and make a whole different design for a socket that sells in much smaller...

20 gallon? Never seen a keg that large before. That would be 75L. Bloody heavy keg! I thought the biggest was a US half barrel which is 15.5 gallon or about 58L? Or is it really old?

Nice trick. I tried it last night while I brewed 40L of Motueka Summer Ale. Works pretty well. :cheers:

The sample was a bit small to really tell, was just a bit in the bottom of a wine glass. It doesn't need back sweetening. Was nice and crisp and refreshing. I wish I had more at the time.

Kegged a NEIPA (of sorts) yesterday. Pitched it last monday so about 7 days in. Nottingham took it from 1.063 to 1.008 at 20c. Beastly Yeastlies. Drew a small sample to measure and taste. So much hop aroma and flavour. Quite dry though, almost a Brut. Not quite what I was going for but happy...

The most you would ever expect is a faster conversion time. Not sure how much faster, but maybe you could comfortable get away with 15-20mins each step? would need to try it to be sure, and periodically do iodine tests to gauge when full conversion is reached.

I think the main reason for this approach is that its faster. The beta amylase only really works on already cut down carbohydrates that the alpha has already trimmed. At the lower temps, the alpha works much more slowly so the beta, while being highly active in the slightly lower temp range...

Given the UV light will be in an inline system with the pump, I'm not sure how it will limit algae growth in the tank? If you where pumping water from one tank with algae to another without algae then UV sterilisation will help prevent the algae from getting from one tank to the other. The only...