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3 x 44 gallon drum conical for brewing biodiesel stainless steel $450.00 Negotiable Capalaba QLD 4157 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/capalaba/miscellaneous-goods/55-44-gallon-drum-conical-for-brewing-biodiesel-stainless-steel/1153093946

you could try wiring in the 12v globe as well as the LED strip to see if that will then "turn on" the transformer. just for ***** and giggles to see if it will work....

IMO it's worth buying the 2.6kg bottle start a slush fund.....

spunding valve is what you want, read this thread https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/spunding-valve.90341/

TIG it if you can.... looks the shiz when done right if you want to get very tricky you can plate the SS with copper and then it solders like brass to brass. Electrodes / anodes and copper in solution to plate the SS = fun chemistry at home :)

https://www.bunnings.com.au/consolidated-alloys-500g-aquasafe-solder_p5060362 this is easy to use, LPG will melt it with a torch if you only need a small amount let me know and i will mail you some. i think they do a 50 / 100 gram stick of the aquasafe in some stores make sure it is the...

go the soft lead free "aquasafe" or go a hotter gas. If you joins are not structural go the soft solder. If your trying to solder copper to SS it can be tricky with soft solder but doable. Heat differences in the metal cause problems, the flux etc and how big an area you need to heat etc.

just eat a few handfuls after you drain the sweet miracle of your wort that makes up for all the meat and beer we eat / drink

could someone confirm the best slide design to use i just 3DP printed the one in the 1st post for someone.... looks a good print but i have no idea about the size of what it's going into...

Hey KB going to PM you about 3DP parts

nice work labels exactly what i was thinking except i think your cooling travels the full length ? i was thinking if you did not interconnect the cooling and you might get even faster heat removal ? eg have fresh "cold" going to each section of copper but wort does travel full lenght, be...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKrPT0_vSug i have made plenty of these type of chillers / condensers (liebig) normally use 1/2" through 3/4 all copper You drill out the 1/2 X 3/4 X 1/2 T's to allow the 1/2 tube to pass through the T and the 3/4 go between the T's pretty easy to make and you...

i use the pump thats on my tank, some sort of house hold pressure pump I find it works best if i have a T so most of the pump pressure just goes back to the tank and some goes to the chilling equipment. I have a valve on the T and use it to increase the pressure to the chilling side or open it...

or just brew when you need to top up the pool use tapwater / garden hose to chill dump into the pool and then swim in the heated pool :) i have a 2000l tank i use to chill just circulate back to the tank using a pump

i think the white stuff also stops the heat F#$%ing up the wires from the heat.... they are a POS thing personally i think you should bin it and by a proper element....

would the torque only really apply in high pressure situations ? I use mostly 3P valves but they are a pain to reassemble as i pull them apart before every brew...

Metal home brew kegs $40 each $40.00 joyner QLD https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/joyner/miscellaneous-goods/metal-home-brew-kegs-40-each/1148568368

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/coopers-plains/building-materials/crates-plastic-make-an-offer-4-pallets-plus/1148014009 Sapporo bottle crates in Brisbane $1 each

if your considering the build and need the 3DP part from Mattrox in the 1st post give me a shout Got one running right now printing bipedal robots ..... happy to do a few if u r serious

Ive got one of those plug in power meter things at work, next ferment i will run it the full length and test that... yeah pressure the receiving keg then put the spunding onto it at "closed / high pressure". go easy or you shoot gas into the kegementer set everything up and open the spund to...