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bah... you don't need a ph meter. I only have some good ph strips (beer brewing with a PH range between 3.8 and 5.4, from "the brew shop"). Just work hard on your calculations. yes, it's a lot to digest and that's just 0.0001% there is to know about bugs and brett. People helped me a lot when I...

bufff! that's opening the door to a new dimension! hehehe Some yeasts produce a little tartness, but barely noticeable. If what you want is a sour beer you have basically three options: - lactic acid -> inmediate but crappy and artificial way of souring, you won't get any flavour from the...

Agree on everything with you but one thing. Mixing too many good things and too much of them makes poop but Maris Otter and pilsner can also be something beautiful, come on, just a little bit of a waste expending the extra on the fancy posh pale for that, maybe. You can always go full Belgian...

This guy knows: I've only brewed 2 non-brett-saisons and in both cases it took more than 2 weeks to complete fermentation even raising to 28ºC. This yeast stops 2/3 of the way, then it takes some days off and it continues afterwards. I wouldn't bottle a saison too soon, depending on the mash...

I've only brewed 4 hefe-weizen / wiesse bier / german wheat beers so far (and an awesome dunkel roggenbier!) and the problem for me is exactly the opposite, to get the balance banana/clove. I always get super-banana and very little to no clove. Maybe I don't wait long enough to drink them...

This is how I do BIAB. I wrote it for a friend, but maybe you get some ideas. I started to brew 3 and a half years ago and I won my first competition this year! Having said that, please take it with a pinch of salt, I'm still a newbie, I'm sure many things will be wrong. BTW I take critics and...

Agree with coalminer . The best place to put the probe if you don't have a thermowell is directly taped on the side of the fermenter with some kind of insulation on top, a small pad big enough to cover it. Piece of Yoga mat, beercoola.. whatever you have on hand. Keep it on the opposite side...

Ah I see you pitched at 28. Don't know for sure but that could have been the cause... Maybe someone else have a better idea

72°C is the temperature of gluco-proteinase!!! Off the chart! Hehehe For that beer you should mash at around 66. 68 would make it sweeter, 64 dry. Most of the fermentables you are extracting are long sugar chains, and ale yeast doesn't eat those. That's why your FG is so high and your beer...

P.s. I've used dry enzyme 3 or 4 times and it's all or nothing . The amount of it you use will make it faster or slower but more or less of it won't make it break more or less sugars. Don't know if that's scientifically true, but that's my experience. Also, keep in mind it will be there if you...

If you want more attenuation and lower FG (dry beer) but you don't want to go crazy with the dry enzyme (don't want to loose all maltiness) you can: - lower the saccharification step temperature of your mash. This will extract short chain sugars that are preferred by saccharomyces cerevisiae...