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Stirring or recirculating makes a massive difference, as does getting your coolant as cold as possible. I pump water from a 60L container inside my fermentation fridge and the wort temperature plummets.

When you two are ready to play properly, I have some torches and pitchforks which you are are welcome to use.

Nelson Sauvin. It's tom cat in a glass.

A corona mill has a rotating disk which grinds the grain and will also shred a lot of the husk. A roller mill crushes, rather than grinds, and this will leave your husks more intact. Whole husks will give you less chance of a stuck sparge. For BIAB, it probably wouldn't matter as much. Plenty...

FG of 1.010 and 1.008 respectively? I'd say that your thermometer and yeast are doing everything you are asking of them. If you are convinced that your hopping rate is correct, is it possible that your beer is oxidised? I taste the early stages of oxidation as a honey-like sweetness.

Has anyone tried the Newcastle Dark in something which isn't dark? It seems to have been trialled by a few people in dark milds, but I was wondering how it would go in a low gravity bitter.

Typically you're meant to pour the beers after you've pulled the weeds.

Good to hear someone else has had a positive experience with the Bavarian Wheat. I really liked it. I was in the fortunate position of being in Bavaria last year, where I conducted plenty of "research" on weissbier, the big names as well as the smaller locals. The beer I made with the M20 would...

Actually it got away from me and fermented warmer than I wanted it to. Here you go: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/76362-m20-dry-yeast-bavarian-wheat/

I built the chiller and the pre-chill set-up at the same time, so I haven't tried it with tap water. However, I know you can't ever chill lower than your coolant temperature, which is a problem for most of the year in Perth unless you only ever brew saisons. I decided to go down this path after...

So if I'm brewing, I have space in my fermentation fridge, right? And if I have space in my fermentation fridge, I might as well use it to pre-chill water for my newly built immersion chiller. Thanks to a submersible pump and a 60 litre Ikea tub, I ran near freezing water through boiling water...

I have and it's very different to wb-06. It gave me a touch of banana with some nice vanilla flavours. Of the liquids, I'd say it's closest to 3638, without being the same. I like it and intend to use it again.

There's Worthingtons and there's Worthingtons. White Shield is a fantastic beer, so I was only too happy to order Worthington's Cream Flow when I first saw it. Silky smooth, yellow water. I suspect this is what WE&L was unfortunate enough to imbibe.

That's how I would describe melanoidin malt. How would you say they differ?

If it's attenuation you're after from a dry yeast, then Nottingham should be your first port(er) of call. If Nottingham doesn't get the job done, then it's time to look for problems elsewhere.

I haven't used Centennial before, so what better way to learn than by using an entire 100g pack in a 12 litre batch! In a swipe at the Master Chef ******y which infects our televisions, this one will be "Hops Four Ways" - Boil, Cube, Press, Dry. All on a mostly Vienna base of 1.060. Gotta love...

No, they're very different. D Saaz is the old name for Riwaka. I think it has Saaz in its lineage, but it's a newer, much fruitier hop from New Zealand.

I've just knocked my stir plate together using the link provided by Zwickel as a guide. Four bolts and a scrap of perspex and it's done. I think it's a pretty elegant design. From my collection of orphaned chargers, I found one with variable output which gives me as much control as I need, so...

Alas, no joy. Silver lining - my temp controller is in perfect working order.........

Will do. Thanks for the tip. Last roll of the dice, then it gets turned into a worm farm.