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Why is it being kept in a temp controlled brew fridge? Cold overnight? They can be done warmer than 20 and are probably better done warmer.

Maybe, I'm not saying don't bother with it, just that I haven't had any issues from not using it.

Excessive trub in the fermenter is another minor reason why I leave as much **** in the kettle as possible, and also leave as much of it behind in the cube as possible, aside from the other issues that may arise from it being allowed in there. It's just a pain in the arse when it gets too high...

Yes, boiling plus kettle finings nearing the end of the boil (inside 10 minutes) will sediment the crap out - you just have to give it enough time after flameout for it to drop sufficiently [emoji6] 3 minutes won't do it, hence the usual 15-20-25 minute stands. I also no chill in cubes, and...

If you read the first part of my post and the part about the beer not tasting good either, you wouldn't have even asked that question. It's not about beer clarity alone, it's about beer quality overall. It's not about leaving all the proteins out, just the ones that aren't wanted. Why go and...

I don't even wait that long, they're usually done in 7 days or less so I take readings after 7 and 9 days. They're almost always the same as each other so I figure from that that the beer has had enough 'cleanup' time and just crash chill it after taking the second reading.

Basically, hot break isn't all that good for the beer. I don't mind a small amount making its way to the cube (almost impossible to avoid really without a filter or something) but I try to prevent it as much as I can. It can cause a few different problems but premature staling of the beer is...

I don't whirlpool my wort at all, I just turn the urn off and let it sit there for 25 minutes then transfer to the cube. Still leaves almost all of the kettle trub behind. I use cube hops in pale ales but I'm not worried about getting it to 80 degrees first, it works regardless for my tastes. I...

Looks fine to me too and the chain of events sounds pretty normal. I wouldn't worry about the airlock or trying to get a decent seal on it if it isn't completely airtight. I've been using gaffer tape over the hole in the lid for years and just backing it off a bit so the gas can escape. Works...

Most of the time they just get a soak in hot perc overnight, then rinsed with hot water and air dried the following day. Occasionally I'll wash them in detergent and rinse thoroughly. I know what you mean though, with the bubbles all stuck to the sides of the glass. It happens at home if SWMBO...

I did something similar recently although not to quite as high an OG and not really an imperial stout, just a bigger version of my usual one with increased amounts of base malt and roasted barley. It's sitting in a second fermenter now and is almost finished going by yesterday's SG sample. The...

I have a 40L Crown Urn, and brew either 21 or 25 litre batches. I have done a couple of 26L batches unintentionally and if was using a chiller instead of cubing my wort I could probably stretch it out to 28 litres or so if I wanted to. You have to boil a small enough volume to prevent boil overs...

I got sick of trying to guess what to add to the water as well, most of the time the water profile in Brisbane is pretty stable but when you have events like this rain the past week, if it ends up falling on the dam catchment areas which are full of limestone then it causes the water to go...

I buy in bulk as much as I can and yes I do reuse yeast. Sometimes I go a year or two without buying a single yeast pack as I generally rotate three strains regularly. There is obviously a cost for the DME used in the starters but I don't count that towards the batch, though it would only be a...

A carton and a third would be 1.33 cartons [emoji12] if it's being made to 20 odd litres then obviously yes it's more than that. A carton varies depending on the bottle size, standard 375mL bottles it's about 9 litres. I don't count the time spent with mine as a 'cost' as it's an enjoyable...

Agreed. $28 for a carton and a third isn't that cheap on a homebrew scale, most kit beers would be around that price for double the amount of beer. Obviously less for AG. Mine usually cost around $7-$8 a carton worth.

Maybe the urn being wrapped is making a difference. I don't wrap mine up during the boil, or at all for that matter. I also boil for 75 minutes, but the wort level only drops about 3.75-4 litres.

I wouldn't even be using a heater inside the fermenter in the first place. Fermentation generates its own heat. Anyway, the beer only needs to be left in the fermenter until it reaches final gravity plus another 2-3 days to let the yeast clean up a bit. Don't take any notice of bubbling to...

I only bothered with them after doing the same thing, measuring and recording my own system measurements etc. It's handy to have the profile set up properly for your system but I'm much the same, I know how much water I need etc. With my Crown urn BIAB set up I've worked out that I need to start...

How long did you boil it for? My Crown urn only boils off at around 3 litres per hour. What I did was sort of do things in reverse, not taking much notice of the Beersmith recommendations and just working out myself how much water I needed to start with to get the target volume of wort into...