Search results

I agree. I love a little light crystal and Munich in an IPA. A bit of protein like rye never goes astray either. Don't mean to complicate things but that recipe posted by laxation looks pretty on the money. Dry hop it once or twice and you're away!

There is a little known advantage of a smaller size oak barrel... Surface area. Ports in barrels are reductive which means they evaporate and thicken with age. To give you an idea, some Porto E'deuro barrels are aged so long that its thicker than molasses and requires cutting open the barrel...

The buffer is reusable. Store each colour in a sterile jar and if you rinse your PH meter with distilled water before testing each buffer then you shouldn't effect their PH. I've used the same solutions for years with no calibration issues. FWIW

Welcome mate! What kind of brews are you into? Garf

Agreed

I did this once and got away with it but it's poor economics as you're boiling from cold so using extra gas or electricity. Unless you're trying to kettle sour you're brew I would avoid this method

Absolutely!

If you have a few fermenters on hand you could look at blending. If you have enough yeast for cube 1 you could ferment through (including higher temp diacytel rest) then rack to another vessel. The yeast cake left behind should be ample to then ferment the remaining 30 L then rack onto first...

My juiciest IPA was achieved with galaxy: 85% pale 10% rye 5% rolled oats Hops: None during boil 1g/L flameout with whirlpool 1g/L at high krausen for 3 days 1g/L late ferment for 3 days 1g/L post ferment for 3 days Juicey as hell! Loads of passion fruit flavour Hope that helps

Is this stuff still available?

Any chance that fell through? I'm chasing a grain mill and can pick up this weekend

The BJCP notes on Saison indicates dry hopping is not uncommon. I personally prefer a bit of hops to compliment the yeast drive

Sounds like a good system. You're pretty much doing what I'm suggesting anyway. I don't have any keg experience but I like the idea of keg conditioning. Do you have any trouble with yeast sediment in the glass?

No. Yeast needs to still be active to metabolise the residual diacytel. A couple of days is usually enough or just let it finish off the fermentation at low to mid 20s. After this you can cold condition in fermenter or keg if you want. All of these numbers depend on yeast strain, of course

No she's not near that classy

I've never brewed with my GF... ... She works weekends anyway

If you're saying you'll use the kit yeast then it's probably English ale. It might give a lagerish brew at 18' but you should let it up to 22-24' in the last few days to blow off diacytel (butterscotch flavour ester) which develops low temps. If you buy a lager yeast then you'll ferment much...

Go for it! You could mash raisins with grist or add to boil. Add rum, post ferment, just to taste or pull a sample and mix up an test batch. Another option would be to age a beer in a Muscat barrel

I've had bad experiences with high volumes of CO2. While you're starting out, consider more conservative rates and work up from there. I pretty much use 2.0 volumes for most styles and I usually get great head retention on dark beers

How long? You could pitch at 30 while it's working it's way down to 18. Yeast much prefers to grow warm but for flavour sake we don't let it. If it's down to 18 in a few hours I doubt you'll notice any concerning flavours