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Hi Max, I just discovered a bug in the temperature calibration that might be relevant. When I uploaded the latest ArdBir sketch 2_6_70b7 (previously used Mathos code) I noticed that my temperature probe was incorrectly measuring 47 degrees Celsius, but when I load the mathos original sketch it...

Hey Marksy, I was having some dramas uploading the new Open Ardbir software to my board so ended up reloading the original Mathos program, so when I tried your suggestion the issue with the extra Celcius symbol had disappeared. So I'm not sure if it was the software refresh that fixed the issue...

Hey Marksy, So prior top a few days ago I hadn't wired up the 220v AC side of my control box, the 12v DC supply I mentioned was an external power adaptor that I plugged into the arduino board just to see if I had soldered the parts and new screen in properly - and had no issues with the...

Hey djar007, That's pretty nifty, do you have to lacquer the hydrographic film afterwards? I printed mine on Avery waterproof labels from Mathos original build instructions then covered with a clear roll of contact to prevent the edges from lifting, corners are a bit tricky though.

JB, As far as I can work out there's some electrical interference causing my LCD screen to display an extra 0 deg C after the temp value, it only happens when the temp probe is wired up and the unit is running on 220v AC power (doesn't happen when I power the Arduino directly with a 12v DC...

Hi Guys, Have any of you had any issues with the temperature reading repeating the last two characters after the decimal point (including the degrees Celsius symbols)? I'm still using mathos original code that Lael flashed onto the Arduino before he sent out the kit, and I've yet to flash...

+1 I've been reluctant to upload any new code to my semi-complete build and overwrite mathos code that Lael preflashed to my arduino for fear of stuffing it up. A video tutorial would be awesome

Ha ha no, the temperatures supposed to read like that when there's no temp probe connected B)

Hi mate, Thanks for your help, problem has been solved!! Mind you I did take the easy way out and borrowed a mates resister stash and tried a few in parallel with the R6 until I was happy with the screen brightness that the 10ohm resister gave me, before and after pics here: Thanks again...

Hi James, Thanks for your feedback. I've been trying to figure out which components need to be modified to adjust the LCD backlight brightness, which I think is controlled by pins 15 & 16 - I figure R6 120ohm resistor is the likely candidate, can anyone confirm this? These are the comparison...

Hey NealK, I ordered the 20x4 LCD screen from your eBay link and the LCD brightness is quite a bit dimmer than the 16x2 (the 16x2 worked just fine and was pretty bright). On checking the data sheet I discovered that the backlight operating current & voltages are different from the 16x2 (in fact...

This might be a little off topic but who better to ask than a skilled Brau-builder - it concerns an alternative method of sealing the bottom of the malt pipe. I've got a mate who can roll and weld some stainless into a malt pipe (or two) and I was thinking of using the following EDPM seals from...

Hi Lael, I too would be interested in a controller kit. Thanks Brendan