Another factor might be the liquor to grain ratio in your mash tun while recirculating. I find that if it is possible to have a couple of inches of fluid sitting on top of the grain bed that this helps with the recirculation process. If you are returning wort into the grain bed you are much...
I've looked at these as a cheaper option to the Blichman autosparge which is significantly more expensive but the things that has put me off is the inability to unscrew the arm at the valve end. I don't want to have to take the whole thing off the mash tun or undo a nut every time I clean the...
My approach to hopping Ultra Low Gravity (ULG) beers is a similar approach to xpa's. Basically wait after flame out until the wort is around 85C or below and then add a shed load of hops into the whirlpool. I no chill and find this is the best was to avoid harsh bitterness. I also adjusted my...
Awesome, thanks for the quick reply! Does the hole in the top sit over the space in the centre of the 4 kegs? I don't think it will matter either way but might mean I don't have to cut down the tubes from the font.
Thanks for the reply, I can't seem to to find the exact specifications for the size of the hole on top of any kegerators. Do you know what the diameter of the hole on top of the series X is? If it is over 47mm I'm sure I can make it work!
It's currently on a GD 125 that has died but looking at the smaller series X, not the plus. I can check the fitting.
Edit: Looked this up and it seems like it needs a 47mm hole and from memory has a large nut that holds it in place from the bottom. Will that work with the series X?
The above advice is certainly sound and cube hopping is a great way to end up with different beers from the same wort or to try different hops to see what they bring from the same base but I'm not a massive fan of what they leave behind in the cube.
For hoppy beers I generally use a very small...
Here's the Nanny State recipe from their website NANNY STATE - BrewDog Recipes
The reason that I modified this was because I found the end result really thin with no body to support the hops so looked at ways to get a low ABV with a FG that was more similar to standard pale ales.
This wasn't an exact nanny state clone but was the last grain bill I used, it worked quite well in terms of balancing hop bitterness and providing some body.
25% Carapils
25% Rolled oats
12.5% SM40
12.5% medium crystal
12.5% Shepard's delight
12.5% wheat
Target OG of 1.018
Target FG 1.012
ABV...
I've made a few of these beers over the past year or so as my wife stopped drinking but enjoys an alcohol free beer so asked me to make some.
I've made a few pale ales based on the nanny state recipe and the best results I have had have been using about 60% crystal 40% base malt, mashing at 73C...
In my keg fridge I don't have a board like this but I do have a 5 way manifold that I have mounted to the roof of the fridge inside. Would this be an option? It might making adjustment a little bit fiddlier but that would be the case for anywhere in a fridge full of kegs.
I wouldn't assume that electricity was more expensive than gas. The question is whether or not you have access to enough to do what you want to do quickly.
For example if you have access to 1 15amp and 1 10amp circuit there's potential for 6kW of power and that will heat water from 20C to 65C...
I started out with BIAB with a 70L pot and a spiral burner with a medium flow regulator, the regulator is important in getting the most out of a decent burner. For all of that plus a bag and a way of hoisting it etc you can probably do it on the cheap for around the $300-$400 mark.
Given that...
If legging I make cider from Aldi apple juice, 9 2L bottles, allow to ferment our completely and then add 2L of top notch apple juice to the keg and it tastes great.
If bottling though this will ferment out and make bottle bombs!