Plastic Fermenter With 2nd Tap?

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Jakechan

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Im thinking about installing a 2nd tap on the side of my fermenters about half way up, for the purpose of getting more accurate SG readings.

Im just not all that convinced that the standard tap is far enough away from the trub/yeast cake.

Anyone else bothered to do this?


Cheers,
Jake
 
Im thinking about installing a 2nd tap on the side of my fermenters about half way up, for the purpose of getting more accurate SG readings.

Im just not all that convinced that the standard tap is far enough away from the trub/yeast cake.

Anyone else bothered to do this?


Cheers,
Jake

Hi Jake,

It's a good idea, however, taps are notorious for infections. The more taps, the more chances. When I was doing K&K's i had a plastic tap on my fermenter. Every time I used it I noticed that there was a sticky goo on the tip and up inside the tap from where the wort dried after the last use. I think it's a fair bet that the sticky goo leaves a trail all the way to the inside, which I suppose is like a little highway for little bugs to your fermenting wort. Now that I AG, wouldn't risk having a plastic tap, I just plug that bugger up.

Another option, which I do, is to drill a say 3/4 inch hole in the lid with a rubber stopper. (I put my temperature probe through this stopper, but a blank stopper works just as well). To do a SG test, I use a glass turkey baster, like a wine thief or a large syring w/o the needle, and draw a sample through the hole at the top.

Also highly recommend getting a hydrometer, which are commonly found online for about 50 bucks. If you use the spreadsheet from morebeer.com, you can use a refractometer after fermentation begins (as long as you have the OG). This makes it heaps easier to measure SG, and wastes less beer. The spreadsheet is here and the instructions on using it here

Beers,

Rob
 
Run a 100+ mls off into a cup etc then take the reading. Spray the outlet before and after with some sanitiser.
 
And after spraying the tap with sanitiser, I wrap it in glad wrap. 2c.
 
Also highly recommend getting a hydrometer, which are commonly found online for about 50 bucks.
Thanks Rob, I already do, not sure how I gave the impression that I don't though. ;)
Might spring for a refractometer one day too.

Run a 100+ mls off into a cup etc then take the reading. Spray the outlet before and after with some sanitiser.
Yeah, I do this now Barry, but Im still not convinced that the tap is far enough away from the crap on the bottom.

I guess the more holes and taps the more risk of problems for sure. I think I'll give it a go though, at least on one of the 4 fermenters Ive got.

Cheers,
Jake
 
Does a boat float higher on a pond with fish in the water than it does on a pond with no fish? Actually it doesnt. And a hydrometer in a sample with chunks of yeast also floats at the same height as a hydrometer in the same sample with no chunks.
 
Does a boat float higher on a pond with fish in the water than it does on a pond with no fish? Actually it doesnt. And a hydrometer in a sample with chunks of yeast also floats at the same height as a hydrometer in the same sample with no chunks.

I'm with Lurker here, didn't really think about it that way. I reckon because the yeast aren't actually part of the solution, ie it's a colloidal mixture, then the SG is the same. If the yeast were actually dissolved, then it might change the SG.

Oh yea, sorry, I meant to say get a refractometer in my earlier post, not a hydrometer, brain fart on my part.

Rob
 
refracs dont help once the beer has started fermenting. stops at 1.035. The alcohol the beer produces screws with the refrac.

Refrac = When brewing and for OG

Hydrometer = FG's
 
Does a boat float higher on a pond with fish in the water than it does on a pond with no fish?

But if you chop the fish up into small pieces and they end up in solution then they will raise the SG. :)

But the issue is not 5 days after fermentation, its right at the beginning with getting the OG. In this case a raised tap will be great I reckon.
Cheers,
Jake
 
refracs dont help once the beer has started fermenting. stops at 1.035. The alcohol the beer produces screws with the refrac.

Refrac = When brewing and for OG

Hydrometer = FG's

Promash has a calculator that adjusts for this.

I just take the sample, and if it has a lot of solids, I leave it for a while and let them settle before taking off the small amount needed for the refrac.
 
Does a boat float higher on a pond with fish in the water than it does on a pond with no fish? Actually it doesnt. And a hydrometer in a sample with chunks of yeast also floats at the same height as a hydrometer in the same sample with no chunks.

Sorry GL, my advice above was meant for a refracto not a hydrometer which of course, reads the same whether or not the sample is dirty.

Fents --- As P&C says, I just run my reading through ProMash to get my FG. Anyway, there are plenty calculators & charts out there that will convert your refracto FG reading to the correct gravity points.

TP :beer:
 
sorry guys i dont think i quite understand....

i brought one of those trick refracs off ross with brix and gravity. went to take my first reading which was of a fully fermented beer and the refrac showed 1.035 and wouldnt budge. i knew the beer was finished so i got my hydro and sure enough it was 1.010...rang ross to ask why they were so different and he said refracs get confused with alcohol thats why it stops at 1.035 even when its fully fermented and to just use the hydrometer for FG's and refracs for mashing/sparging/OG's.

have i miss understood someone along the line?
 
If you go into promash/beersmith, there is a calculator- put in the refrac reading, it will tell you the actual gravity.
 
cool trying it now.

edit - biggups guys how cool is that! has an option for Fermenting wort/unfermented wort/finished beer....learn something new everyday round ere.
 

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