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Blackened

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Hey all,

I'm finally making some real headway in my build so I figured I'd upload some pics for critique. Please feel free to point out any flaws in my design. My build is the result of a downgrade from a previous large batch size approach, to my current target of small, fast, easy to use, and repeatable.
 

yum beer

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I think the mash tun is a bit small
 

Blackened

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This weekend I've managed to get the RIMS tube mounted, along with the pump, to the underside of my brew table. These pictures are my solution to mounting the DS18B20 temperature sensors that are available on ebay. These are the ones that come pre-wired with a 6mm SS probe tip. I wanted to avoid a thermowell as this would further slow the heat transfer from the medium to the sensor. Before I got them I wasn't sure if I'd strip off the SS tip and insert the bare component into a thermowell or use them as is. Turns out the solution was easy enough with my tools and the bits n bobs floating around in my fittings junk box. The only thing I needed to buy for this small aspect of the project was some more lead free plumbing solder ($21 but it will last for quite a few more projects).

The purple washer was cut from a silicone oven mitt that has provided me with numerous flange gaskets over the years :D . I used a 1/2 tube offcut to punch out a piece and then a smaller tube to punch the hole in the middle. Once screwed in the washer compresses and forms a seal around the probe.

I drilled a 1/4" hole in the elbow to allow a little bit of clearance, and I needed to enlarge the hole in smallest hollow threaded fitting.

Then I filed a flat face on the elbow so I could solder the small hollow fitting. I used a butane torch, lead free plumbing solder and water soluble flux.

It all took a bit of time, but it was man-cave time, so time well spent IMHO :lol:

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If you have a close look at this last pic you can see the SS probe tip protruding into the path of the flow. I reckon this is the perfect place to ensure I'm getting an accurate and fast temp reading. Faster response (I hope) because the flow rate past the sensor with be increased as it squeezes through the narrower gap and this should improve the transfer of heat from the wort to the tip.

Opinions?

Cheers
Peter
 

Blackened

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You are putting wort through that? :blink:

You are a braver man than me.
In what way is "that" a problem? Are you referring to the brass or the fact I haven't cleaned it up yet? All my research indicates that copper leaching is more of a concern than lead leaching. Or are you referring to the gap between the probe and tube wall being too small?
 

Yob

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Primarily the layers of rust in it.. Id either be finding a new one or finding a new one.
 

Maheel

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get some citric acid powder from the flour / baking isle at woolies and boil them in it and let them soak a while

that will clean up the brass nice
 

Blackened

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get some citric acid powder from the flour / baking isle at woolies and boil them in it and let them soak a while

that will clean up the brass nice
Yeah that's my usual routine for cleaning copper. Either that or tartaric acid. I'll recirc some through the entire rig and with a bit of temperature it will come clean very quickly. The copper pipe is pre-loved too, some from old bits of gear I've made in the past, and some from the HWS. It will all need a thorough clean yet.
 

Wolfy

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In what way is "that" a problem? Are you referring to the brass or the fact I haven't cleaned it up yet? All my research indicates that copper leaching is more of a concern than lead leaching. Or are you referring to the gap between the probe and tube wall being too small?
Paying ~$200 for a nice new shiny stainless RIMS tube and then fitting it with old rusty recycled brass fittings (to save $10) is not a 'problem' and will make good beer ... but still.
 

Blackened

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Today's activity, mounting the chilller. Let's see if this picture works (nope, link supplied instead)
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9SAl6ByahqPd051NTBRRGJYWDg/edit?usp=sharing

and this one:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9SAl6ByahqPd051NTBRRGJYWDg/edit?usp=sharing


I've mounted it using hinges, as in my testing I found I got poor results unless I got rid of most of the air. The coolant water side is easy enough, just turn the tap on full and the air bubbles are expelled, but the gravity feed from the kettle took more effort. This way I can give it a jiggle if the flow stops too.
 

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